Patagonia is not a land for wimps. I had been drawn to visit by a travel article that made the trip to Cape Horn sound like an adventure. The Australis team is very
professional and you feel that you are in safe hands. It will be an adventure but draped in first world safety standards. Quite different to being trapped on a runaway elephant sans driver in the Thai jungle…
It was my first time on a zodiac though and I had seen enough of the Strait of Magellan by then to know I did NOT want to be in that water! First you are suited up in lifejackets. You then go through detailed instructions, which are repeated every time. It isn’t particularly difficult but you do need to follow the procedures to avoid tipping the raft. It’s an adventure for small-a adventure people. People who likely don’t swim with sharks, climb Mt Everest or paraglide over the Grand Canyon.
We all got on the zodiac without incident but everyone was pretty quiet and there wasn’t even a lot of photos being taken. No one wanted to tilt us into the Pacific Ocean. The zodiac driver employed only modest speed and tried not to scare us. I am always fascinated watching pampered first world travellers morph into greater adventurers. Even by the return trip to the ship, you could see people were relaxing on the zodiac and the driver gunned it once he knew we could handle it.
That was probably because the harder hike was indeed harder. By Navy Seal standards, a walk in a particularly pleasant park but we had been expecting something more 60+ friendly. Everyone made it but our tour leader just quickly led the way without paying too much attention if everyone was right behind her. There was enough elevation for heavy breathing and. in some places, you had to pull yourself up by grabbing a rope and making your way along its length, frequently through enough mud to destroy your footwear for any other future purpose.
It was all quite exhilarating and the view from the top made it totally worthwhile. And this is a luxury cruise, so all physical efforts are rewarded with hot chocolate, whiskey or both.
There is a lot of time on the ship to chill out – or be brave and take photos in the frosty air. I did a lot of the latter. Luckily, I grew up in one of the coldest places on the planet so freezing my fingers off for a photo seems a fair trade-off.
In the afternoon, we got to put our zodiac skills to use a second time. This time we just cruised around a couple of islands admiring cormorants and penguins. It’s always amazing to see wildlife in abundance IN THE WILD in our over processed modern world. Patagonia has done a good job of maintaining its natural splendor.
Part of the credit goes to Doug Tompkins, one of those rare local hero types who can actually turn money made from being a good businessman to money spent actually doing something good for the entire world. He was the guy who created, along with his first wife, The North Face and Esprit. He first travelled to Patagonia in the 1960s and in 1968 did a famous trip with Yvon Chouinard (founder of Patagonia Inc.) where they put up a new route on Mount Fitzroy. Growing disillusioned of the environmental impact of the fashion industry, he channelled his Esprit profits into conservation.
He moved to Chilean Patagonia. At first, he explored the wilderness of the region, eventually setting up the Foundation for Deep Ecology, The Conservation Land Trust and Conservacion Patagonia. He also married Kristine McDivitt Wear who had been the CEO of Patagonia Inc. North Face meets Patagonia… quite the love story.
Not surprisingly, they both shared the same retirement goals – land conservation, environmental activism and biodiversity. Tompkins used his retail riches to buy up land in Patagonia to save it from mercantile uses. This land grab by a foreigner was regarded with suspicion by locals. He was at various points accused of being a spy, of buying up land to create a Zionist enclave, and of planning to ship Chile’s fresh water to parched lands overseas.
Instead, his goal was to turn the land into national parks working with the national governments of Chile and Argentina. It appears he has made great progress in convincing everyone that there is benefit for everyone in creating national parks in Patagonia along with wildlife protection, biodiversity and sustainable organic farming practices. It all sounds a little too good to be true but go to Patagonia and see for yourself. The end of the world is a stunningly beautiful place full of fresh air and star-studded skies.
Sadly Doug Tompkins died in 2015 while on what he thought was an easy kayaking trip with a bunch of old friends. No doubt it was probably a manner of death he would have chosen for himself. Kristine continues on their legacy and the future looks promising. According to The Guardian, the Chilean government announced the day after Tompkin’s death that Pumalín Park, one of Tompkins’ earliest acquisitions, would become a national park in March 2017 but the website suggests that it is already open.
Writing about Doug and Kristine is a great antidote to thinking about the US election and how most of the rich people spend their money. I am incredibly hard to impress but Doug Tompkins goes on the hero board. What a wonderful world it would be if this is what all billionaires did with their riches…
















YOU ARE what you buy – and do…
I am not planning to become a political commentator but, thanks to my grandmother’s son, I have been incredibly political my whole life. When I was young, people thought I would be Prime Minister and I kind of thought they might be right 😉 But once I got to the big city and discovered the ugly compromises it generally requires, I resigned as the Secretary of the Young Progressive Conservatives at the University of Manitoba.
It didn’t mean that I stopped caring or totally abandoned politics. When I was so hoping for the Hillary win, I was thinking of my dad, wishing he was still alive so I could call him to discuss – and remembering when we watched Jimmy Carter get elected. One of my favourite memories. Jimmy was a far more interesting outsider than Donald and still one of my favourite Presidents. The truth is, people, Presidents are just part of the machinery and – if you don’t have a corrupt, incompetent system – they often set the tone rather than develop and pass all the legislation so I judge them more on what they do after they get that famous – and Jimmy has been a superstar.
It’s odd talking about Jimmy Carter and Donald Trump in the same sentence. I do think there is a chance though that he is a different guy than we have seen. I am going to cross my fingers and hope for the best.
Hey, my grandmother inspired me and I have adopted a lot of her values in my adult life and I have a lot of admiration for her but that lady scared the shit out of me through most of my childhood 😉 She was one of the toughest people I have ever met. She had some totally kookoo ideas. Despite the fact that she was fond of her Native Canadian son-in-law, she said things that were shockingly racist and made me uncomfortable.
She never had a passport. She took long bus trips when she was so elderly most people couldn’t have made it up the steps. She was a fighter. She loved her family. She loved westerns and young people. She was a force of nature and I am so happy she was part of my inspirational life.
But she was not perfect – and she had the kind of world view some of the people who voted for Donald Trump had. Politically, she was a hot mess. I think it was the Conservatives she hated her whole life. I know it had something to do about the price of eggs during that administration. She was a farmer. My father would argue with her but it never mattered.
I have been reading and listening copiously the past few days. My takeaway is my very special privileged life. I was raised in a place that isn’t dissimilar to the disaffected people who made Donald Trump President. I was crazy ambitious so I turned myself into one of the elite who is sometimes resented by members of my own family.
I’ve toggled between the worlds – along with lots of other permutations and combinations, having now been to 58 countries – and it has made me far more sensitive and understanding of the entire world order.
Trump is an opportunist who seized on stuff I never would because my moral compass is WAY higher but there is value in us all getting out of our normal perspective and trying to understand – and more importantly respect – the other guy.
Sure, Trump is a bully and a lot of his supporters are bullies. BUT I am NOT really an elite person. I am a girl who passes for elite…
And lots of the elite are bullies too. I managed to finagle my way into a very elite university program only to discover I had no way to bond with all these rich kids who had not been able to arm wrestle at eleven because part of their day was spent carrying ten gallon pails full of chop, which is pig food for all of you non-farm people.
I am trying to find something positive about the Trump presidency but I am listening to Colbert as I type this and it’s tough.
Trump is no ME. He doesn’t understand at all the people who voted him in. I hope they will call him out if he doesn’t represent them. The big challenge is that the world is a complex place. We are lucky in western democracies to have systems that can generally protect the average person. We already know that I wanted Hillary… but I think I really liked Bernie better.
The truth is politics is a tough, messy business. As is life. It is SO hard to find a solution that will responsibly let national citizens prosper and thrive.
I’ve never known how my father voted. Only that he really cared about the world. Not even about democracy. He seemed to be onboard when I decided at about age thirteen the best political system was likely benevolent dictatorship… but finding the right dictator such a tough call that democracy was the next best and workable option.
As a REAL OUTSIDER, what I would suggest to Americans is that they need to talk TO each other, rather than AT each other. That is their biggest problem. The elite can be pompous and insensitive. The frustrated can be angry and unreasonable.
You may not like it but the world is constantly changing and you just need to accept it and try to find the best way to embrace it. I have so much sympathy and compassion for the people in the Rust Belt whose jobs have been taken over by a robot or a cheaper worker but you have to realize those workers used to be really poor – as you were a century or so before – so they are grateful for the jobs, which have made THEIR lives better…
The big change that has happened in the last hundred years is that there is a lot more wealth. The bad part is that we have allowed that wealth to become concentrated in too few hands. A lot of us are victims of marketing. If you really want to change the world and bring jobs back to your region, support your local entrepreneurs – even if it costs a little more. We need to rebuild our sense of community. We can’t stop globalization and it is not all bad – but we have lost each other’s back…
Enter the Trump machine… It’s up to you. We can stop him. He doesn’t have a lot of original ideas…
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social commentary
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