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Posts tagged ‘david cerny’

czech nouveau riche

FINALLY…. writing something new… have been travelling a lot so definitely more to talk about – and had enough time to find the Prague photos!

As already noted, Prague has come a long way, baby… Luckily, there is still plenty you can do on a budget but, if you have a little more money to blow, it’s even more enchanting.  There are now boutique hotels and one of the best is Hotel Josef.  You can walk to many attractions and there is a metro stop a couple of blocks away if you want to do something more adventurous.  Included in the price of your room is a sumptuous breakfast.  On the plus side, you will likely do plenty of walking, some of it uphill, so you can indulge without guilt.

worth the walk

A great journey is to walk through the Old Town over the Charles Bridge (or a less famous one if you don’t like crowds) to Malá Strana.  It’s the baroque neighborhood near the castle.  It’s worth checking out St. Nicholas Church but even more interesting is just walking the medieval streets.  Nearby is Hradčany, the homeland of the support staff for the castle in medieval Prague.  The castle is the obvious draw but it’s also worth checking out the Loreta.

It’s a baroque place of pilgrimage.  It’s modelled on the Santa Casa in Loreto, Italy.  The Santa Casa is

how the aristocrats live

supposed to be the home of the Virgin Mary.  Dorothy wasn’t the only one to have magical journeys.  The Santa Casa was moved by angels to Croatia when the Turks threatened Nazareth.  When the Turks got close to Croatia, the angels delivered the house to Italy, finally landing in Loreto.  There are some impressive frescoes and a spectacular treasury.

One of the reasons Prague has become such a popular destination is that there is gorgeous architecture from all sorts of periods, especially older periods when elaborate, unnecessary details were standard fare.  This architectural splendour extends beyond tourist attractions.  The night I arrived I was dining alone and didn’t know the neighborhood yet so spent quite a while wandering the streets and was starting to worry there might not be a seat for me so decided I needed to make a decision.

art deco extravagance

Then I saw it… a stunning art deco building that looked to have empty seats.  Francouzska Restaurace.  The space is sublime.  The staff were friendly.  What was most impressive though was the food.  An exquisite meal at a great price, including foie gras terrine with chocolate, lobster bisque and champagne!  It was so fabulous I made a second visit with my Toronto friend.  He was equally impressed.

If you are more into beer than champagne, Prague is also wonderful.  Czech beer is world famous and they didn’t need to wait for the craft beer movement to start making great beer.  There is actually a place called the Prague Beer Museum, which is highly recommended.  Most fun is to do flights so you can try different styles before committing.

There is definitely nightlife, although a lot of it is low key and sometimes quirky.  In one nightclub, they showed a ski movie as part of the entertainment and the crowd was really into it.

artistic cerny

Quirky is definitely part of Prague’s character.  One of the best ways to experience that aspect of the Czech

not your average sculpture

identity is to seek out David Cerny’s sculptures.  I didn’t see them all.  An excuse for another trip to Prague?

There is no question Prague is a destination where one visit doesn’t seem enough…

 

time machines DO exist ;)

If you have nostalgia for the 1980s – or you just appreciate quirky stuff – you definitely need to spend time in eastern Europe.  Many people think the 1980s were all about doing coke in the bathroom at Studio 54 or Limelight and providing free advertising for brands by wearing logo goods like a walking billboard.  Certainly that WAS part of the decade but that was not MY 1980s.  The 1980s were also a decade of great protest, recession and budget creativity.  People shopped in thrift stores (it wasn’t vintage back then, just cheap :)), they hung out in cheap neighborhoods that had not yet been gentrified and drank terrible draft beer that cost a dollar, they went to see movies for almost nothing in repertory cinemas.

For a lot of people it was a time when you did a lot with very little.  I met an artist on a trip to Vancouver because he liked the cheap white Keds that I had decorated with coloured markers when they started to get dirty so I wouldn’t need to buy a new pair.  I still remember the thrill sitting on the floor in a rundown building on Queen Street watching a Laurie Anderson video.  I met someone who had organized a poetry slam so I started going regularly to hear people read their work in a bare bones club.  It was astonishing how much fun you could have while having almost no money.

It’s hard to find that experience these days in North America or western Europe.  Almost everything is slick now and anything trendy gets copied across major cities much like the malls are now full of the same global brands.  So, if you want to find something quirky and original, you need to head to places that are not so gentrified.  One of the best times I’ve had this decade was when I revisited Berlin for the 20th anniversary of the wall coming down and discovered Mitte, which felt like I was back in 1980s North America with cheap beer and simple pop-up nightclubs that never seemed to close.

I would certainly highly encourage a visit to Berlin but Prague is probably quirkier these days.  We saw the tourist highlights I’ve already mentioned but we also spent a day doing stuff off the beaten path.  Our first stop was Vyšehvad.  There is a cathedral as well as a cemetery.  The cemetery is the resting place of many famous Czechs.  Normally I don’t see the appeal of cemeteries but this one is really worth checking out.  We didn’t know most of the luminaries but the architecture involved in some of the tributes was spectacular.

great view!

great view!

Our second stop was totally different in almost every aspect.  It was one of the highlights of the visit for me.  One thing you

what's up with those babes?

what’s up with those babes?

will find in eastern Europe is TV towers.  Most are worth visiting because they provide a spectacular viewpoint from which to observe the city.  The TV tower in Prague is a little extra special though.  It boasts a restaurant, a very fancy bar and even a hotel room if you want the full experience.  The other notable aspect is the David Cerny sculptures attached to it.  They were meant to be temporary but proved so popular they are now part of the tower.  Just what are those babies doing???  Looking for David Cerny sculptures is a Prague adventure I would highly encourage you to indulge in.

cheap creativity :)

cheap creativity 🙂

After checking out the view from the top of the TV Tower and trying absinthe in the bar, we headed for our final quirky destination – the Cross Club.  The Cross Club is a multicultural centre that took me back to the 1980s in a big way.  Everything seems built out of necessity with a limited budget.  The creative use of rebar is worth the visit alone.  There is also a restaurant, several bars and even a nightclub.  We did a little of everything.  It’s definitely more a destination if you’re in your 20s but it’s worth getting out of your comfort zone even if you are little more ancient and it definitely felt like we were in “real” Prague.

Prague is more real than Paris but parts of it are now firmly established on the global tourist circuit so, if you are the kind of person who wants to understand a place rather than just ticking off the sites on some pedestrian bucket list, do get off the beaten path… Prague is so great at the non-beaten path you will get all kinds of suggestions just googling Prague off the beaten path…  Being quirky is synonymous with being Czech it seems 🙂

p.s. my apologies – it’s never happened before but somehow I seem to have lost most of the photos from this trip so the visual factor is not what I would like it to be.  On the plus side, there are lots of images of Bratislava, Prague and Vienna on the internet 🙂

 

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