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Posts tagged ‘prague’

czech nouveau riche

FINALLY…. writing something new… have been travelling a lot so definitely more to talk about – and had enough time to find the Prague photos!

As already noted, Prague has come a long way, baby… Luckily, there is still plenty you can do on a budget but, if you have a little more money to blow, it’s even more enchanting.  There are now boutique hotels and one of the best is Hotel Josef.  You can walk to many attractions and there is a metro stop a couple of blocks away if you want to do something more adventurous.  Included in the price of your room is a sumptuous breakfast.  On the plus side, you will likely do plenty of walking, some of it uphill, so you can indulge without guilt.

worth the walk

A great journey is to walk through the Old Town over the Charles Bridge (or a less famous one if you don’t like crowds) to Malá Strana.  It’s the baroque neighborhood near the castle.  It’s worth checking out St. Nicholas Church but even more interesting is just walking the medieval streets.  Nearby is Hradčany, the homeland of the support staff for the castle in medieval Prague.  The castle is the obvious draw but it’s also worth checking out the Loreta.

It’s a baroque place of pilgrimage.  It’s modelled on the Santa Casa in Loreto, Italy.  The Santa Casa is

how the aristocrats live

supposed to be the home of the Virgin Mary.  Dorothy wasn’t the only one to have magical journeys.  The Santa Casa was moved by angels to Croatia when the Turks threatened Nazareth.  When the Turks got close to Croatia, the angels delivered the house to Italy, finally landing in Loreto.  There are some impressive frescoes and a spectacular treasury.

One of the reasons Prague has become such a popular destination is that there is gorgeous architecture from all sorts of periods, especially older periods when elaborate, unnecessary details were standard fare.  This architectural splendour extends beyond tourist attractions.  The night I arrived I was dining alone and didn’t know the neighborhood yet so spent quite a while wandering the streets and was starting to worry there might not be a seat for me so decided I needed to make a decision.

art deco extravagance

Then I saw it… a stunning art deco building that looked to have empty seats.  Francouzska Restaurace.  The space is sublime.  The staff were friendly.  What was most impressive though was the food.  An exquisite meal at a great price, including foie gras terrine with chocolate, lobster bisque and champagne!  It was so fabulous I made a second visit with my Toronto friend.  He was equally impressed.

If you are more into beer than champagne, Prague is also wonderful.  Czech beer is world famous and they didn’t need to wait for the craft beer movement to start making great beer.  There is actually a place called the Prague Beer Museum, which is highly recommended.  Most fun is to do flights so you can try different styles before committing.

There is definitely nightlife, although a lot of it is low key and sometimes quirky.  In one nightclub, they showed a ski movie as part of the entertainment and the crowd was really into it.

artistic cerny

Quirky is definitely part of Prague’s character.  One of the best ways to experience that aspect of the Czech

not your average sculpture

identity is to seek out David Cerny’s sculptures.  I didn’t see them all.  An excuse for another trip to Prague?

There is no question Prague is a destination where one visit doesn’t seem enough…

 

time machines DO exist ;)

If you have nostalgia for the 1980s – or you just appreciate quirky stuff – you definitely need to spend time in eastern Europe.  Many people think the 1980s were all about doing coke in the bathroom at Studio 54 or Limelight and providing free advertising for brands by wearing logo goods like a walking billboard.  Certainly that WAS part of the decade but that was not MY 1980s.  The 1980s were also a decade of great protest, recession and budget creativity.  People shopped in thrift stores (it wasn’t vintage back then, just cheap :)), they hung out in cheap neighborhoods that had not yet been gentrified and drank terrible draft beer that cost a dollar, they went to see movies for almost nothing in repertory cinemas.

For a lot of people it was a time when you did a lot with very little.  I met an artist on a trip to Vancouver because he liked the cheap white Keds that I had decorated with coloured markers when they started to get dirty so I wouldn’t need to buy a new pair.  I still remember the thrill sitting on the floor in a rundown building on Queen Street watching a Laurie Anderson video.  I met someone who had organized a poetry slam so I started going regularly to hear people read their work in a bare bones club.  It was astonishing how much fun you could have while having almost no money.

It’s hard to find that experience these days in North America or western Europe.  Almost everything is slick now and anything trendy gets copied across major cities much like the malls are now full of the same global brands.  So, if you want to find something quirky and original, you need to head to places that are not so gentrified.  One of the best times I’ve had this decade was when I revisited Berlin for the 20th anniversary of the wall coming down and discovered Mitte, which felt like I was back in 1980s North America with cheap beer and simple pop-up nightclubs that never seemed to close.

I would certainly highly encourage a visit to Berlin but Prague is probably quirkier these days.  We saw the tourist highlights I’ve already mentioned but we also spent a day doing stuff off the beaten path.  Our first stop was Vyšehvad.  There is a cathedral as well as a cemetery.  The cemetery is the resting place of many famous Czechs.  Normally I don’t see the appeal of cemeteries but this one is really worth checking out.  We didn’t know most of the luminaries but the architecture involved in some of the tributes was spectacular.

great view!

great view!

Our second stop was totally different in almost every aspect.  It was one of the highlights of the visit for me.  One thing you

what's up with those babes?

what’s up with those babes?

will find in eastern Europe is TV towers.  Most are worth visiting because they provide a spectacular viewpoint from which to observe the city.  The TV tower in Prague is a little extra special though.  It boasts a restaurant, a very fancy bar and even a hotel room if you want the full experience.  The other notable aspect is the David Cerny sculptures attached to it.  They were meant to be temporary but proved so popular they are now part of the tower.  Just what are those babies doing???  Looking for David Cerny sculptures is a Prague adventure I would highly encourage you to indulge in.

cheap creativity :)

cheap creativity 🙂

After checking out the view from the top of the TV Tower and trying absinthe in the bar, we headed for our final quirky destination – the Cross Club.  The Cross Club is a multicultural centre that took me back to the 1980s in a big way.  Everything seems built out of necessity with a limited budget.  The creative use of rebar is worth the visit alone.  There is also a restaurant, several bars and even a nightclub.  We did a little of everything.  It’s definitely more a destination if you’re in your 20s but it’s worth getting out of your comfort zone even if you are little more ancient and it definitely felt like we were in “real” Prague.

Prague is more real than Paris but parts of it are now firmly established on the global tourist circuit so, if you are the kind of person who wants to understand a place rather than just ticking off the sites on some pedestrian bucket list, do get off the beaten path… Prague is so great at the non-beaten path you will get all kinds of suggestions just googling Prague off the beaten path…  Being quirky is synonymous with being Czech it seems 🙂

p.s. my apologies – it’s never happened before but somehow I seem to have lost most of the photos from this trip so the visual factor is not what I would like it to be.  On the plus side, there are lots of images of Bratislava, Prague and Vienna on the internet 🙂

 

the chinese are coming ;)

I was very lucky that I happened to be living in Europe in the late 90’s so getting to Prague was not difficult.  We stayed in a guesthouse that still reeked of Communist architecture and the city was still coming to terms with the concept of a market economy.  Prague is one of the most beautiful cities in the world and, at that time, I felt like I had wandered into a Brothers Grimm fairy tale.  We happened to be there on the night in spring where people hike up a hill to scare off witches… something to that effect anyway 🙂  Witches figure into mittel europa tradition a lot.  There was also bonfires and beer, which I think might have been the more important part of the tradition.  I just remember how magical it was to be walking through the forest late at night full of moody atmosphere and torches.

This time I arrived in Prague to rain so spent a day wandering the city in subdued lighting and drizzle, which somehow seemed to fit the city.  Prague has had a complicated history and it feels melancholy.  It’s a dramatic place and it feels right that a place like this would elect a writer and philosopher as its first President (in direct contrast to a President who doesn’t even read books 😉  You can experience Prague on several levels.

climbing the hill for a better view

climbing the hill for a better view

It’s a pretty place with a castle, some museums, a cute Old Town and lots of gorgeous buildings so you can treat it like Disneyland and just follow the other tourists and take photos of the pretty things.  Prague has centuries of fascinating history, though, so you can definitely dig deeper.

According to legend, Princess Libuše had a vision of Prague long before any building began.  It started with the castle.  It was built around 880 and is one of the largest castles in the world.  It is on a hill and a medieval fortress in addition to being a castle.  Later Prague became a major trading hub and, as with the rest of middle Europe, a jewel to be fought over and traded.  For tourists, the castle is one of the main draws.  There weren’t many people there in 1999 but I understood that had all changed – and that was an understatement.

One of the big changes for tourists in the past decade has been the steady rise of the Chinese economy.  I was in China in 2008.  Back then, most people had very few holidays and travel was mostly to other parts of China.  Since I travel to all sorts of destinations, I see who the tourists are.  It’s very interesting.  In Cambodia, there are a lot of French tourists and hardly any Americans.  The Chinese travel the way the Japanese did decades ago – on group tours with someone who speaks their language.

It’s maybe partly the group tour aspect but they seem to be interested in famous stuff.  I made the mistake of going to Galeries Lafayette in Paris during Golden Week, which is a Chinese holiday week.  What was fascinating is that Printemps is only a short walk away (and an equally impressive Parisian department store) but the Chinese tourists were all at Galeries Lafayette.  Based on my observations, I suggested to my friend that we visit the castle in the afternoon when the tour groups had already left.  It proved to be a winning strategy.

The other really big draw in Prague is the astronomical clock.  It was built in 1490 and was a technical marvel of its day.  It still chimes on the hour so it’s wise to

an amazing way to tell time

an amazing way to tell time

arrive early if you want a photo without other people’s heads in it.  It’s in the Old Town Square, which is charming.  If you want to get some good photos or soak up its medieval atmosphere without being jostled, get up early when it is surprisingly empty.  I also discovered that, if you head off the main routes, the streets are quiet.  It seems like a lot of tourists in Prague are on a group program that follows the main routes to the key sites. You’ll want to see them too but it also means there is another Prague that is as yet undiscovered.

worth the wait

worth the wait

St Vitus Cathedral is the other highlight.  It’s part of the visit to Prague Castle.  When we arrived, the line was gigantic so we checked out some other parts of the castle first and were able to enter with barely a wait.  As more of us become tourists, you need a strategic plan 🙂

The final “must see” is Charles Bridge.  It was commissioned in 1357 and is a massive stone bridge across the Vltava River linking the castle to thriving medieval Praha.  Even with the tourist mobs, it’s a wonderful place to stroll.  There are lots of artists and artisans selling their wares and you can get some very cool souvenirs for a very reasonable price.  It is also scattered with statues of saints and glorious views of the river and the ancient city.

These sights take you back to medieval times and it’s easy to imagine the Brothers Grimm are at one of the local taverns and you could join them for a beer.  There are very few places in the world where you can truly imagine you are part of a different century.  For that reason alone, Prague deserves a visit.  What makes it even more special is the quirky nature of Czech history and the off the beaten path adventures you can enjoy once you’ve seen the highlights and want to be a traveller instead of a tourist…

 

prague – the original :)

beautiful even in the rain

beautiful even in the rain

I’ve now sent you to several other places to get a Prague-type experience.  I was incredibly lucky to be living in Germany as Prague began to blossom as a tourist destination so I got to see it in a very virginal state from a tourist perspective.  It has always been in my top ten travel experiences.  Service was pretty terrible and a lot of the city was full of ugly Soviet-era architecture but there was much to admire about the culture and there was also beautiful baroque architecture.  There were quirky things to do like attend a black box theatre experience or climb to the top of a hill in search of witches.

Since then, I have traveled a lot all over Europe and kept meeting people complaining about how crowded Prague is.  It kept dissuading me from a return visit but then one of my friends got invited to a conference in Prague.  We live in different cities so I don’t get to see him a lot so an opportunity to revisit Prague and hang out for a few days post-conference was too enticing to resist.

The first time I had stayed in cheap B+B type accommodation in an ugly Soviet-style apartment block.  This time I decided to go larger and stay at the Hotel Josef.  It was an excellent decision.  It is moderately priced, right in the middle of all the tourist action and there is a metro station nearby if you want to explore beyond the typical tourist sites.  Breakfast is included and it is exceptional.  Luckily, there is lots of walking to do post-breakfast to wear it off 🙂

http://www.hoteljosef.com/

I thought October might offer some respite from the tourist masses.  The weather was definitely cold but that did not stop the tour buses.  I would definitely advise visiting off-season as it is hard to imagine the main square could hold many more people!  The tourists tend to flock only in a few super famous spots so you can get away from the crowds by being intrepid.

The Old Town is small so the best way to begin is to wander aimlessly through the cobblestone

not your ordinary bridge

not your ordinary bridge

streets and get a sense for the place and imagine you are in an entirely different century.  Eventually make your way to the Charles Bridge so you can join the tourist throngs snapping photos and check out the wares of the merchants littered chock-a-block along the length of the bridge.

You will now be in Malá Strana where it is easier to escape from tourists and get plenty of exercise climbing the steep streets.

a beautiful way to tell time

a beautiful way to tell time

There are very few places in the world where you can feel like you have wandered into a real life place that would be the perfect setting for a fairy tale.  Be sure to stay for a few days and get up really early at least one morning so you can see the Old Town Square and the phenomenal Astronomical Clock while the other tourists are still sleeping.  That’s when you will feel you really are a 16th century prince or princess – with a great 21st century camera 😉

 

 

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