the stormy seas of independence…
By pure random chance, I happened to be in Croatia a few days before the Scots voted on independence. You cannot, of course, time your vacation to Croatia to coincide with such an interesting time to be in a Balkan state. There is no question the Balkans are a fascinating place – historically, culturally and geographically. A visit is really rewarding.
It’s rare for me to see a random post on facebook that I really feel is worth sharing but I am going to link to this one as it is a witty representation of much I have observed of world politics. Not all countries are represented and there is no Croatia imagery. But the Canadian quote sums us up rather succinctly. I am a huge fan of history and know far more about the facts and dynamics of my own country than most politicians, less alone most voters.
http://www.tickld.com/x/capitalism-explained-this-is-so-accurate-it-hurts
I understand the seduction of independence, flag waving and nation states. But we would all be better served in the 21st century to be getting together and trying not to let the planet turn into Mad Max…
Anyway, to the travel experience! One of the most unique aspects of Croatia is the abundance of islands to explore. Many are tiny. Some are not even inhabited. It is a playground of fantasy for sailors. I like boats but my sailing qualifications more or less end at a pretty good ability to tie knots thanks to my early years as a Brownie 😉
So, I thought I would sign up with Amico for a cruise of the Elaphite Islands. It started pretty slow as apparently the ship is filled by numerous travel agencies so you start to wonder if you are going to leave the harbour…
http://www.roughguides.com/destinations/europe/croatia/dubrovnik-around/elaphite-islands/
They do ply you with homemade brandy before lunch… perhaps so you won’t realize nothing is happening? 😉 But eventually the trip gets underway and you bounce over the waves and reflect on the clear blue skies.
And – hopefully for you – that will continue for the remainder of the day. Our cruise was a little different… at first the rain was benign and easy to ignore but it wasn’t long before the skies opened up and people had water running down their faces. Being from a city where rain is a daily possibility, I was prepared. I just put on my fleece and positioned myself under my travel umbrella. Girl scouts are prepared 🙂
I was impressed by some young guy trying to frantically unfurl the canvas coverings that were meant to protect the ship in bad weather. I think that should have been the job of the crew but customer service is still being developed in eastern Europe 😉
Apparently the gods did not totally hate us and we had a brief interval of sunshine when we reached our first island, Lopud. The beach was deserted, the outdoor bar opposite the dock was closed and the monastery was under renovation so it’s obvious that, like most people from lovely climates, the Croatians are kind of wimps 🙂
I decided I would be adventurous and follow the signs to the mysterious art installation up the hill. It was a great choice. I saw a lot of the island, especially the flora, and the art installation offered a disrupting perspective that is what art is supposed to do!
It was called “Black Horizon”. The customer service was eastern European style so had no idea what I was doing… but it looked like you went behind the curtain… it was totally black. It was a former communist country so wasn’t sure about safety standards so crawled around the edge of the room so that I didn’t break my ankle or plunge into an unseen pit. After a few minutes, the room did not seem absolutely pitch black and I could see a tiny strip of white light where there was a tiny break in the wall – the horizon!
I’m not sure the artist’s intentions but it was a really interesting visual and emotional experience, especially for someone living in a very safe western country where being thrust unexpectedly into a blackened room is unlikely to be an everyday event.
By the time I got back to the boat for lunch, the rain clouds were threatening again. But it ended up being serendipity. No one wanted to chance eating lunch on the roof of the boat so we took turns squeezing into the tables on the main deck, which resulted in random and unexpected pairings. Most of my lunch time was spent with the guy who had battened down the hatches in the boat and his best friend.
It was pretty obvious as soon as they spoke that they were from Scotland. Ryan’s dad was a fisherman so that was why he knew what to do on a boat when rain came calling (he is Scottish :)). His friend Peter was more the suave ladies’ man. Ryan was especially patriotic and very keen on the independence vote. He had also worked in Norway so we became friends with a Norwegian guy since I had been to Norway only a couple of months ago.
My new friends convinced me I should just hang out at a pub with them for the next two islands. On a sunnier day, I would likely recommend a different strategy. But there is also something amazing about travel when you find a couple of people who can create the catalyst to turn an everyday event into a memory for the nursing home.
Making friends with Ryan and Peter totally changed the day. It had been pleasant enough but a little boring as a solo traveller. But we spent the trip back to Dubrovnik on the upper deck on really choppy seas. The rain had stopped but the weather was angry. What most people didn’t realize is that it’s better to be on the upper deck when the waves are high.
Ryan kept running the free (questionable and homemade) wine to the upper deck. Peter had portable speakers so kept the tunes running. A few people tried to dance but the waves made that more act of comedy than act of seduction. But I ended up being part of an international impromptu party on a rocking (literally!) boat on the Adriatic Sea.
When we finally exited on our groggy sea legs, Ryan announced it had been one of the best days of his life. I would have to concur 🙂











finding real VIPs…
One of the most exciting aspects of attending SXSW is that it attracts an interesting, eclectic crowd. Of course, not all interesting people are created equal – and I am a connoisseur 🙂 I’ve started to think of them as “my tribe”.
Almost all of my friendships were an act of serendipity – and generally include a good narrative. Meeting V was no different 🙂
I felt like a voyeur at SXSW. Most people come with an agenda, especially for the interactive conference. But I was just there to soak up the atmosphere and celebrate my birthday so every day was a random walk. I looked for catalysts or recommendations to inspire the day’s plan.
The easiest day to plan was when my new friend Quin was pitching his business idea in the Startup Village at the Hilton. I wanted to make sure I had a seat for his presentation so sat through 8 pitches from young entrepreneurs. Fascinating – and they are so impressive!
I had an entertaining time with the angel investor sitting beside me and got a better idea what professional investors are looking for. You can check out Quin and his revolutionary new footwear technology at the plantiga website:
http://www.plantiga.com/#about
He was busy being courted by venture capitalists and meeting basketball players so I didn’t get to hang out with him in Austin but going to watch him was how I met V and had one of the most memorable evenings of my life.
It might never have happened had it not been pouring rain at the end of the seminars. We decided to hide inside and have a drink hoping for the rain to stop. The rain never stopped but, without it, V and I might have just gone our separate ways and the fascinating conversation would never have happened.
It’s not often you meet someone who totally gets it when you describe the Ngorongoro Crater as “the Disney version of the Serengeti”. Someone who encourages you to be an intellectual snob.
SXSW is a haven for snobs like me. I grew up in a trailer park so I’m never snobby about things you can’t control about your past. But I am a bit snobby about how you live your future. Whether you try. Whether you have the confidence to learn things and develop your own opinions.
I am snobby about whether you are a VIP – but likely not the way you might suspect. V doesn’t even know yet but he was the inspiration for my repurposing of that term. It came about because we went to an event that night that we thought was a comedy performance by Seth Myers, but instead was Seth showing up and standing behind a velvet rope with the other VIPs while the proletariat stood on the other side of the rope and took photos with Seth when he came close to the Berlin Wall divide.
Seth seemed like a nice guy and I doubt most people there thought much about it but V and I wondered just what separated the people on either side of the rope… and which side likely had the more interesting people…
I am fascinated by the concept of celebrity, especially in these days when it seems almost anyone can get 15 minutes of fame, especially if you are willing to let cameras invade your privacy or act like a moron.
I’m certainly interested in meeting people whose accomplishments I admire. I recently came across the reply to a fan letter I wrote to Robertson Davies as a teenager. His reply was fascinating and insightful (it will get into the blog at some point). I would be thrilled to meet Jon Stewart because he is so damn smart and really tries to engage people and get them to care about important things. He is one of my heroes.
But most of my heroes are not famous. I have zero interest in meeting most of the people the world currently seems to consider VIPs… which gets us to the redefinition V has inspired. I AM interested in VIPs… the difference is that my VIPs are VERY INTERESTING PEOPLE. I would encourage you to seek them out. They are the one that may not rock – but they WILL rock your world. Thanks, V 🙂
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life philosophy, social commentary, travel stories
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