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Archive for August, 2018

southern charm

Even if you are not interested in music, there is still plenty of reason to visit Savannah.  It first got on my radar when I saw the film Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.  It’s always fun to read about a place while you are visiting so I bought a copy of the book in Savannah.  I would highly recommend it. The book is far superior to the film and the author (John Berendt) provides a lot of insight into Savannah.

I had always envisioned Savannah as a grande dame of the mythical South, one of the few parts of the United States I had not yet seen.  This is definitely Confederate country but Savannah is closer to Austin and Portland than to the old Deep South, at least the parts that I checked out.

I am very interested in history, architecture and all manner of artistic expression so the Historic District seemed the perfect place to hang out.  It’s also where all the Savannah Stopover events occur.  It’s a perfect place to play tourist.

What is astonishing and commendable is that this area actually exists in the grand form you will find it in 2018.  Like most of North America, the 1950s saw young families rush for the suburbs using new highways and the historic centre was abandoned and the historic homes became rundown and the neighborhood’s crime rate rose.  Many buildings were demolished.

Then, everything changed.  Seven local women formed the Historic Savannah Foundation to purchase and preserve the Davenport House, saving it just 24 hours before the scheduled demolition.  They mobilized others and saved and restored many historic homes.  Most of them are now inns or tourist attractions.  A few even sport ghosts.  If you aren’t staying in a “ghost” inn, you can take a ghost tour.

While I wouldn’t recommend staying in historic inns while doing the Savannah Stopover as you miss some of the benefits, I would definitely recommend them when you have an easy schedule and can take advantage of all the extra amenities, which generally include breakfast, pre-dinner wine and appetizers and post-dinner port and dessert.

eliza thompson house

I stayed in two different inns and both were excellent but the offerings were a little different.  At one, I had my own separate entrance.  At both I had a large room filled with antiques and history.

gastonian

The staff were amazing.

I think southern hospitality is a real thing.  There was an extra level of charm to many of my encounters and the accent is seductive.  The inns I stayed in were Eliza Thompson House and the Gastonian.  Eliza Thompson House is closer to the action of the Historic District while the Gastonian is closer to Forsyth Park.  The attractions of the Historic District are walkable from either inn.

There are some tourist attractions you can check out but it’s a small city so the prices for the small

famous fountain

museums seemed a bit steep and I was worried I would be disappointed so I spent my time wandering the streets from square to square.  Savannah has a European feel and there are small squares every few blocks.  They are filled with statues, flowers and benches and many are surrounded by stately mansions.

The most spectacular statue and flower place is Forsyth Park.  If you read the book, you will also want to look for the Mercer-Williams House.

You can take a riverboat cruise but some other tourists at the inn said it was boring and I took a steamship up the Mississippi in New Orleans so I stayed on shore.

It’s not healthy to live in the past too much but Savannah allows you to indulge in a little nostalgia and spend some time pretending you lived in a different century (but with 21st century plumbing and food! 😉

music lover nirvana

That is the fun of a much smaller festival.  I didn’t generally run into people more than once but it was easy to make connections and the venues are all close together and it is easy to hop between venues generally without having to wait in long lines.

Later that night I got braver and found W. Congress Street and was lured into The Jinx by the music, discovering Sun Parade.  I wanted to get my full breakfast at the inn so didn’t stay out too late the first night.  The charming gentleman at check-in had given me a good map with various highlights, including the route back to the inn from W. Congress along Bull Street.

My ability to navigate both the streets of Savannah, the locations of the various clubs and the band schedules improved considerably on day two and I think I hit every venue before the festival was over.  One of my favourites was the Congress Street Social Club.  Not only did it have an outdoor patio, it also had Shiner Bock, my favourite beer from my visit to Austin.

It also ended up providing the most fun story of the trip. By Friday night, I was pretty comfortable with Savannah and so checked out the after-hours lounge that was just for VIPs, volunteers and bands.  As a bonus, drinks were free 🙂  On Friday night, it wasn’t too busy but there was one lively young woman who decided we should all be dancing.  I’m not sure why but being lured onto dance floors to boogie with strangers is a very common activity in my travel life 😉  At least there were no fancy twirls and dips this time.

birthday club

I didn’t think much about it until the next day at the Congress Street Social Club when I was waiting in line to get a Shiner Bock and the guy behind me commented on my dance moves.  What was extra fun was that it turned out he was the lead singer for the band I had come to see, Birthday Club (from Houston).  While I was waiting for them to get set up, I also met Zack and John David who were incredibly entertaining (almost as good as the band).  That added some pressure for the band to be good so that they would be impressed by my musical taste.  Luckily, the band was great and I bought them a CD and a poster since they had bought me a beer and introduced them to the band as new fans. Everyone was thrilled.  I had even more fun at the after-hours club on Saturday night since I knew some band members by then and it was a lot livelier.

Unfortunately Zack and John David didn’t find me later in the night as we agreed then but it was

plastic picnic

easy to meet people and there was a really relaxed atmosphere everywhere I went.  The next band was also very good (Plastic Picnic from Brooklyn). Unfortunately they didn’t have any CDs.  I tried my best to buy CDs and support the artists since I know it’s a tough industry these days for emerging artists.

spectacular entrance

The most impressive venue is the stage at the Ships of the Sea Museum where the opening and closing acts are showcased.  The closing act was Of Montreal, a friend of the event and definitely a band to check out live.  They are a bit more established so likely a bit easier to find beyond the Savannah Stopover.

Another impressive venue was the Trinity United Methodist Church.  That’s where I discovered Colter Wall.  I went because he is from Swift Current

colter wall

in Canada not that far from where I spent my childhood.  To see someone from my own environs in faraway Savannah, Georgia was a no brainer.  He is a country guy so I didn’t know of him before Savannah.  While his performance was a little stiff, his voice is a revelation.

It’s the kind of event where you can talk to the performer so I told him I had been to Swift Current, that he sounded like a young Johnny Cash and asked which album I should buy. He acted like a nice Canadian kid and seemed pleased with all of it – and I loved the album so have been talking him up ever since.

vegabonds

I do have a soft spot for country so checking out bands from Nashville not out of character but also loved the Vegabonds who are Nashville but more southern rock than country.  I have listened to their album, What We’re Made of, a LOT.  Highly recommended.  And again, band was very friendly.

You get the idea… I would definitely recommend to come and check out Savannah Stopover for yourself and find your own musical discoveries.  You can also just come for the local talent, especially if you live nearby.  My final musical encounter of sorts was meeting Danielle Hicks at the after party.  Her show had been on the same time as another on my list so I just stayed at the same venue and missed her but she kindly gave me a CD at the party and converted me into a fan.

It was so much fun and I am sure I will return but it was agreed I had probably travelled further than anyone else at the festival so likely not every year – but for those living on the east coast, you don’t have that excuse 😉

p.s. also check out these bands.  They are all emerging and could use your support.

p.p.s. since I started writing this, had a fun random encounter.  Since the government mostly controls liquor distribution in Canada and sin taxes are insane, it is really rare to find a decent bottle of wine for under $10.  I’d taken a chance on a Chilean rose at my local store and apparently I was not the only person who thought it was a great deal so had to take the train to a bigger store that had some in stock to buy more.  It’s a specialty store that has products I can’t get at most stores so bought enough to make the visit worthwhile and looked like a pack mule when I got on the train.  A young woman named Jessica kindly offered me her seat but I told her I was fine.  While Canadians aren’t unfriendly, there is definitely some British reserve to the culture so assumed that would be the end of the conversation but I could see she wanted to chat so I found out she didn’t normally drink alcohol but did like rose so I showed her the label and provided some background on the Australian wine industry (where it all began for me).  More was discussed and I felt a little sad that I didn’t have very many stops on the route.  It made me realize how delightful human interaction can be and that we could all use more of it.  I do it a lot when I travel.  One of the reasons travel makes me so happy.  Some cultures are especially easy to interact with when you are a stranger so a little shout-out to Americans.  The rest of the world is wondering a little about some of their choices these days but they are one of the friendliest cultures on the planet and that made my trip to Savannah so much more enjoyable.

 

 

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