a unique perspective on this crazy world

Archive for May, 2017

DO cry for Argentina ;)

We are jumping continents again… back to finish my South America adventures…

Argentina was the first country I visited in South America.  The trip had an unusual origin.  I invited a friend who had just come back from a five month sabbatical in South America to a wine dinner with some Aussie friends.  They asked him his favourite country and he replied Argentina.  At that point I had never been to South America.  It was my missing continent so when my Australian friend decided we should go, I was in.  She was married so we only had 10 days since she was leaving her husband at home in Canada.

That’s when I discovered Argentina is the eighth largest country in the world!  So we wouldn’t be seeing all of it in 10 days… I decided we could spend some time in Buenos Aires, drink wine in Mendoza and check out Iguazu Falls.  It was a magical trip.  What was most amazing is that the logistics mostly worked.  We never got to the Brazilian side of the falls (despite paying a hefty fee and enduring insane archaic bureaucracy to get a visa so we could spend a day in Brazil) because there was a strike…  There were also strikes and protests that meant we never got to eat steak as the strikers were blocking its delivery to restaurants.

part of the culture

Welcome to Argentina!  You should absolutely go!  Just recognize that it is the kind of place for which the term banana republic was created.  It’s a gorgeous country full of natural resources and some of the world’s most beautiful people.  Part of the reason Danny was so keen on Argentina was how many attractive people he met there.  I’m not sure what they put in the water but he was right 😉  While strikes and protests can mar your travel plans, there are lots of lovely people in Argentina.  You feel so sorry that their country is such a mess as they don’t deserve it.

My first trip was back in 2008 when the economy was only starting to recover from the most recent economic catastrophe so there were a lot of cynical Argentinians jealous of Chile.  Buenos Aires was once the Paris of South America and it was the 10th wealthiest nation per capita in 1913.  They did elect Macri and there is finally some hope.

That’s the Argentina that I visited the second time.  When you take the Australis ship you can do a return trip or you can go in one direction.  It’s very expensive and I didn’t get the sense I would see a lot more returning to Chile so chose the Punta Arenas – Ushuaia route.  Ushuaia bills itself as “The End of the World” as there is no population settlement further south anywhere in the world.  It’s where you go if you want to check out Antarctica (so I will likely be back at some point ;).

You likely want to spend the extra to get a transfer to your hotel when you leave the ship.  I was cheap and did not… it all looked easy on the map 🙂  It wasn’t very many blocks to drag my suitcase but what I hadn’t realized was that the entire journey would be on a steep incline with questionable infrastructure like sidewalks… I made it without succumbing to a taxi and the reward at the end of the journey made it very worthwhile.  I would highly recommend the Alto Andino Hotel.  It’s quite small, the staff are very friendly, there is a good breakfast and – the biggest treat – there are sweeping views of the mountains and the Beagle Channel from the top floor. On top of all that, I also had a Jacuzzi bath in my room.  Ushuaia is a small frontier town so it’s an easy walk (without a suitcase!) to find souvenirs, food or drink.  I did have an incredibly difficult time finding water, though. so you may want to pack some.

beautiful breakfast

Just to make sure I knew I wasn’t in Chile any longer, there was a giant protest!  Welcome to Argentina…  Didn’t do anything especially memorable in Ushuaia.  It’s really a transit hub – but it is in a gorgeous location so worth a day if you end up there on your way to somewhere else.

Getting back to Santiago was challenging.  There are only a couple of flights a day from Ushuaia to Buenos Aires so I spent hours at the airport.  It was one of the most abysmal airport experiences of my life.  I had far more fun drinking beer at the outdoor café in Arusha watching the tourist groups come and go and local Tanzanians hang out.  The food and entertainment options were extremely limited and the pizza I finally decided to try tasted like cardboard!  They made it fresh so I was hopeful but maybe they forgot the yeast… At least I didn’t have to switch airports!  LAN Argentina changed my flight several times and I had to call them to finally sort everything out to make sure I could connect to Santiago and what airport I needed.

Argentina is like a telenovela star.  Gorgeous –  but temperamental and difficult at times.  She drives you crazy but she is so seductive you can’t resist… The people of Argentina need your pesos.  Go and meet them.  You’ll fall in love…

 

czech nouveau riche

FINALLY…. writing something new… have been travelling a lot so definitely more to talk about – and had enough time to find the Prague photos!

As already noted, Prague has come a long way, baby… Luckily, there is still plenty you can do on a budget but, if you have a little more money to blow, it’s even more enchanting.  There are now boutique hotels and one of the best is Hotel Josef.  You can walk to many attractions and there is a metro stop a couple of blocks away if you want to do something more adventurous.  Included in the price of your room is a sumptuous breakfast.  On the plus side, you will likely do plenty of walking, some of it uphill, so you can indulge without guilt.

worth the walk

A great journey is to walk through the Old Town over the Charles Bridge (or a less famous one if you don’t like crowds) to Malá Strana.  It’s the baroque neighborhood near the castle.  It’s worth checking out St. Nicholas Church but even more interesting is just walking the medieval streets.  Nearby is Hradčany, the homeland of the support staff for the castle in medieval Prague.  The castle is the obvious draw but it’s also worth checking out the Loreta.

It’s a baroque place of pilgrimage.  It’s modelled on the Santa Casa in Loreto, Italy.  The Santa Casa is

how the aristocrats live

supposed to be the home of the Virgin Mary.  Dorothy wasn’t the only one to have magical journeys.  The Santa Casa was moved by angels to Croatia when the Turks threatened Nazareth.  When the Turks got close to Croatia, the angels delivered the house to Italy, finally landing in Loreto.  There are some impressive frescoes and a spectacular treasury.

One of the reasons Prague has become such a popular destination is that there is gorgeous architecture from all sorts of periods, especially older periods when elaborate, unnecessary details were standard fare.  This architectural splendour extends beyond tourist attractions.  The night I arrived I was dining alone and didn’t know the neighborhood yet so spent quite a while wandering the streets and was starting to worry there might not be a seat for me so decided I needed to make a decision.

art deco extravagance

Then I saw it… a stunning art deco building that looked to have empty seats.  Francouzska Restaurace.  The space is sublime.  The staff were friendly.  What was most impressive though was the food.  An exquisite meal at a great price, including foie gras terrine with chocolate, lobster bisque and champagne!  It was so fabulous I made a second visit with my Toronto friend.  He was equally impressed.

If you are more into beer than champagne, Prague is also wonderful.  Czech beer is world famous and they didn’t need to wait for the craft beer movement to start making great beer.  There is actually a place called the Prague Beer Museum, which is highly recommended.  Most fun is to do flights so you can try different styles before committing.

There is definitely nightlife, although a lot of it is low key and sometimes quirky.  In one nightclub, they showed a ski movie as part of the entertainment and the crowd was really into it.

artistic cerny

Quirky is definitely part of Prague’s character.  One of the best ways to experience that aspect of the Czech

not your average sculpture

identity is to seek out David Cerny’s sculptures.  I didn’t see them all.  An excuse for another trip to Prague?

There is no question Prague is a destination where one visit doesn’t seem enough…

 

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