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Archive for May, 2014

the museum whose name I can’t pronounce…

But I’m working on it!  It’s called the Stedelijk Museum but you can also just refer to it as the Museum of Modern Art when you are here and people will likely know what you are talking about.

a little different than the rijksmusuem...

a little different than the rijksmusuem…

http://www.stedelijk.nl/en

You should definitely go!  Like the Rijksmuseum, it’s been going through a giant renovation and relocation so I’ve only seen a mini exhibition on a different street.

I’ve been going to museums since I could read so it’s been interesting to watch the evolution of the concept.  There were a few museums that really wowed me as a child but generally the 21st century incarnations (or reincarnations) are far superior.

There is a clever use of technology via pre-recorded audio guides in many languages. Not as charming as following the French tour because it’s the one going at that hour – but you do understand more 😉  And don’t have to jostle others to see the objects.

When I first started going to museums I would try to read and see everything, absorbing as much as possible.  Anyone accompanying me would normally be hanging out in the gift shop or sitting on a bench near the exit.  Once you’ve been to most of the famous museums in the world multiple times you need to reassess your strategy.

The museums of a city are a reflection of its culture – how often the weather forces people indoors, the interests of its citizens and the wealth of its economy.  I’m not sure if bankers “get” all the art but they definitely like seeing their names on display 🙂  It’s no accident London and New York City have no many world class museums.

The museums in cities without armies of investment bankers or who have been the epicenter of the art world like Paris are smaller, more provincial affairs.  It’s easy to dismiss them.

But every museum holds a few treasures, whether some local art or artifact native to the region or some painting from a favourite artist you’ve never seen before donated by a local collector.  What people collect and choose to display, include the design and architecture of its showcase, will reveal some secrets about the local culture and enrich your understanding of it.

The Stedilijk is not the Pompidou but it is well worth a visit.  And learning how to pronounce will improve your Dutch 🙂

look at those cakes!

look at those cakes!

p.s. after you have explored museums, head to the Pijp for cake at De Taart van m’n Tante – it’s worth the walk

http://www.detaart.com/en/home.htm

 

giving the mona lisa a run for her money ;)

I really need to quit travelling so much as I have so many half-written posts now, spanning three continents… and I am travelling again, knocking off country #48…  have decided the best strategy is to just start in the past and knock them off country by country… so my current travel destination will be revealed in future… some of the post were written in the moment so we’ll stay there, even if the moment was in 2013 🙂

With the preamble out of the way, let’s go to Amsterdam!  First with a post from last autumn…

I booked this trip so my KLM points wouldn’t expire.  But I also wanted to check out the renovations of the Rijksmuseum.  It has been going on for years and finally completed in April 2013.

https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en

the grande dame restored

the grande dame restored

They promised me a brand new museum last night and I think they were not mistaken.  It’s been a long time since my first visit to the Rijksmuseum but the 21st century version is definitely impressive.  And crowded!

I followed Dutch history chronologically from 1100 through 1050 but I would recommend you head for the Rembrandt gallery as soon as the museum opens!

It wasn’t quite the Louvre in July, when I made my mom and niece line up half an hour before opening – and then dash to all the really famous sites within the first hour before the Louvre turns into an iphone launch scenario, but I bet Rembrandt wishes he’d been able to brand himself and put the Nightwatch on t-shirts in his day 😉

the rembrandt masterpiece

the rembrandt masterpiece

My first viewing of the Nightwatch was a transformative experience.  I was on my first European tour and learning art history by visiting many of the world’s greatest museums.  By the time I encountered Rembrandt I knew a little about art – and could recognize his extraordinary rendering of light.

I was certainly impressed by my first viewing of Nightwatch but this time I understood much better the extraordinary talent it took to capture not just the light – but all the movements of the various players in the portrait.  As I learned today, guild portraits normally had a bunch of stationary posed figures like a high school graduation photo.  Rembrandt’s lively composition was an evolution in Dutch art.

The evolution of Dutch art – and the Netherlands – is celebrated in grand style in the new/old Rijksmuseum.  I am still evolving in my understanding of Dutch – and European – history.  But there is definitely much that can be learned from the Dutch.  According to the Rijksmuseum, for a few centuries this tiny country was the most prosperous in the entire world – and even then there was a push toward a fairer distribution of wealth.

If the crowds snapping photos in the Rembrandt Gallery today are any indication, I am not the only one fascinated by the Dutch 😉  Like the Dutch, its beauty and power are subtle and you really need to see it in person.  No doubt you will become a fan – not just of Rembrandt, but of the Dutch who bred him 🙂

exploring your inner Angelina Jolie ;)

You can’t go to Siem Reap without encountering Angelina Jolie.  Likely not in the flesh but her spirit is alive and well… and I think she does have a lot of affection for Cambodia so I was OK with all the Tomb Raider promotion 😉

You can skip the Tomb Raider cocktail but DO go to Pub Street, as much to eat as to drink.  You may discover the music volume is at its best on the street instead of in the clubs but maybe I just care about my hearing too much 😉  You should definitely have a beer at Angkor What? because it’s how you will imagine Cambodia – cheap beer, imported staff and weird graffiti (you will be able to hear the music from the bar across the street from that distance!)

https://www.facebook.com/angkor.whatbar You should of course drink some Angkor beer because, hey, you are in Cambodia!  And you should check out Pub Street in Siem Reap at least for a night but remember to see some temples too 😉

Of course, you have to go to Angkor Wat…. We will talk about it… but it is most likely your heart will be captured by a more underdog temple… there are a lot of temples! I should have likely planned more but I am working too much to have much time to obsessively research the travel destinations so I am generally improvising.  Improvising is not so bad if you do a few basics pre-trip.  I make sure I have some idea what to do and book a very well-researched hotel if I think I am going to need help getting around.cambodia 2 029

As already noted, I can’t say enough wonderful things about Shinta Mani so it was easy to just put myself in their capable hands… and that’s how I met Tiger.

http://shintamani.com/

cambodia 3 108I would recommend starting early and finishing before lunch to maximize the experience.  And you definitely need to check out Ta Prohm… or, as you will start referring to it, the Tomb Raider temple 🙂

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ta_Prohm

When you get there, you will be tempted to start acting like a video game character J  It is wonderfully atmospheric – a bit swampy, with the jungle threatening to overtake the buildings.

The other temple that will blow your mind is Bayon.  Another crazy aristocrat possibly on drugs… but the faces will follow you and pop up in your dreams.cambodia 3 177

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayon

I am now in Amsterdam trying to force my way through jet lag so we may drift back to Europe… but there is still more I want to say about Cambodia so I am sure more adventures will find their way into these pages…

For now, all I can say is stay at Shinta Mani, ask them to book a tuk-tuk temple tour with Tiger and embrace your inner Angelina Jolie – but don’t mess up the temples with bullets 😉

who knew ear plugs were so sexy ;)

As previously noted, music at SXSW is likely the most overwhelming part of the experience.  I think I am actually going to be able to get the SXSW posts finished before I get on another plane!  Perhaps we will also amble around Angkor Wat a bit… perhaps nothing interesting will happen in Europe and I will have to resort to nostalgia…  let’s hope it doesn’t come to that 😉

welcome to the live music capital of the world :)

welcome to the live music capital of the world 🙂

So… watching live music in Austin.  As noted in an earlier post, it took me a while to get the hang of it.  You really have to push yourself to quit reading the guide and go see SOMETHING!  And I discovered doing the critic’s picks in the Austin Chronicle was no guarantee of success.

All of my favourite moments were the result of serendipity rather than careful planning.  I decided I would check out the British Showcase since a large part of my music collection comes with a British accent.

There were some good bands, nothing as great as the Toronto Showcase I wrote about earlier, but definitely a pleasant way to spend an afternoon.  And the coolest part of SXSW Music is that it brings out lots of fans – of musical genres, musical periods or rabid fans of local indie bands you’ve never heard of.

Some of the British bands were worth checking out – Public Service Broadcasting, Casual Sex, Young Fathers.

http://publicservicebroadcasting.net/

http://www.theguardian.com/music/2013/mar/11/new-band-day-casual-sex

http://www.young-fathers.com/

You can go and try and track down Coldplay or Lady Gaga.  They know a lot about marketing so of course they are there getting lots of free publicity but I would recommend looking for the hidden gems… and chatting with everyone you can so that you can hear their stories and share tips on what to do next…

And, who knows, you might have a little romance while you are looking for additions to your CD collection.  The one thing you likely want to pack though is earplugs!  I assume all the musicians and road crews are deaf.  There is no reason the amps need to be turned up that high but you aren’t likely to change it.

The British Showcase was especially loud.  I noticed quickly that all the staff – and some patrons – were sporting ear plugs!  I mentioned my longing for ear plugs to my new friend Craig and, all of a sudden, I had a pair – in purple no less!  Believe me, It is very easy to crush on a guy who buys you ear plugs at SXSW!

The atmosphere is very casual though and there is a lot of drinking so I found you rarely see anyone again.  It’s quite possible they wake up the next day not remembering that you’ve met J  And you’re there for the music after all 😉

But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t trade mobile numbers with people and see what happens… you might just have as spectacular an end to your SXSW experience as I did.

I met John the penultimate night of SXSW at the Scottish portion of the British Showcase.  When he texted me the next night I was at the Lit Lounge waiting to see some band the Austin Chronicle had given the thumbs up to but there wasn’t much happening for a couple of acts so I took up his offer to meet at the Palm Door to see someone called Res who was famous in Philadelphia, close to his hometown (Pittsburgh).  She was good but then the music changed to rap so I headed back to the original schedule.

While I was at the Palm Door, John told me he might come and see the final band of the night at the Lit Lounge as they were from Pittsburgh and the lead singer had a “gay crush” on him.  While I was waiting for him to decide, I spied a seat (rare at SXSW) and the two other guys at the table told me they were there for “The Ugly Beats”.  They were big fans and, once it was time for the band to come on, we had to get up close to the stage and dance!

http://theuglybeats.com/

Somewhere in the middle of their show, John showed up.  The other guys headed out once their band was done so it was just John and I for “The Cynics”.  The lead singer gave an inspired performance and we got to talk to the band when the show was over.

http://www.gethip.com/site/bands/cynics/

John had to drive home to San Antonio so he walked me to the Driskill and kissed me more dramatically than most final shots in romantic comedies.  A passionate kiss in front of the Driskill after watching a show where the guy knows the band… I couldn’t have written a more perfect ending to SXSW 😉

So… be nice, pace the Shiner and you won’t be watching rom-coms on the big screen – you will be living them 🙂

 

austin is NOT Texas!

Indeed!  I didn’t hear that in Austin but I did amuse some locals with my New Orleans anecdote.  My take – Austin is Portland in the middle of Texas.  Incredible!  And very cool.  I will definitely be back… and without all the hoopla of South by Southwest… but I will be back for that too.

For now, just some tips on how to rock Austin.  And rocking Austin one of the best parts! The live music capital of the world.  Of course, for Americans, the world doesn’t involve a passport.  Geography is not their strength 😉  But, I have seen a lot of countries and I don’t think they are necessarily wrong.  Americans love to be #1… I just want the experience to be worthwhile – so, who cares… Austin is an amazing place to see live music!

the grande dame of 6th st

the grande dame of 6th st

If it works with your budget, make like a cattle baron and stay at the Driskill.  It’s the

good luck finding a seat during SXSW!

good luck finding a seat during SXSW!

Claridges of the USA J  The kind of hotel that has so much history and such great staff that the hotel becomes part of your experience of the city, like a well written character in a novel.

http://www.driskillhotel.com/

The Driskill also sets you up right on 6th Street so there is live music everywhere… even if you drink too much bourbon it is a short walk home 🙂

oil barons feel right at home...

oil barons feel right at home…

But, if you are smart, you will be drinking Shiner Bock (just ask for “Shiner” to sound like a local)… I gather it cost me more during SXSW but still great value… and a wonderful Texan small town entrepreneur story…

Home

The other thing one should do in Austin is eat!  There is a food and wine festival.  I am sure it will be part of my future.  This trip was focused on SXSW and expanding my brain and musical experience so I didn’t put huge efforts into sourcing dinner…

But what I loved was that even with minimal effort I had some wonderful meals.  My favourite spot was an authentic Italian pizzeria Due Forni.  I read about it in my hotel room one afternoon and then accidentally discovered on a wander that it was about two blocks from the Driskill – so it became a bit of a home away from home… definitely check it out when you get to Austin.

http://dueforni.com/main/menu-austin.html

Other places to check out are Crave on 2nd Street and Craft Pride if you are a beer aficionado.   I also had some lovely food at the Hilton and Stephen F. Austin Intercontinental.  I think you can almost throw a dart in Austin and have a good time on all the important levels – food, drink, music J

http://cravetexas.com/

http://craftprideaustin.com/

The only hard part to your stay in Austin will be the sad ride to the airport… to seduce you to return, you will even be able to drink some Texas beer and listen to live music at the airport!  Giving Schiphol a run for its money 😉

 

searching for the perfect sazerac…

I’ve accepted I am never going to catch up on all the travels of the past couple of plane-crazed years but I am going to try and hit some highlights and mix it up a bit… so, let’s go back to New Orleans…

Last year New Orleans was my birthday trip.  Quite a few of the adventures made it onto the blog and I will return once I’ve ticked off some of the other “must see” destinations on my list.  Living in Vancouver, I am spoiled by numerous amazing bartenders making classic – and original – cocktails so I have been educated in the history of the Sazerac.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sazerac

The Sazerac is a very butch cocktail, supposedly the world’s first.  Like any drink with such a long history, it’s not clear if all the facts are accurate but it apparently started out as a combination of Cognac and Peychaud’s Bitters with an absinthe rinse for a hint of danger 🙂

It is the official cocktail of New Orleans and one of my favourites so I sampled a few during my stay in New Orleans.  My final morning in the city it was pouring rain so I decided one last Sazerac at the Sazerac Bar at the Roosevelt Hotel before the taxi to the airport was the way to go.

http://therooseveltneworleans.com/dining/the-sazerac-bar.html

I had planned to get to the Roosevelt Hotel earlier but there is way too much to do in New Orleans to get to everything.  You SHOULD go to the Sazerac bar though!  A step back in history.  If you like your cocktails manly, order a Sazerac.  If you like them softer, order a Ramos Gin Fizz.  Just watching the bartender properly shake it is worth the price of the cocktail!  And the ingredients in the Sazerac at the Roosevelt made it far superior to any of my other experiments.

making a gin fizz

making a gin fizz

It was the perfect way to say goodbye to New Orleans… and because I was sitting at the bar sipping and chatting with the bartender at a quiet time of day I ended up in a conversation with the couple sitting next to me.  The wife was fascinated that I travelled alone.  They were from Texas – so I enthusiastically told them my birthday plan for 2014 was Austin!  I had to suppress my grin at their reply, “Austin is NOT Texas!!!”  Exactly why I was going there first 😉

I considered packing my cowboy boots but went for the dangerous punk-inspired black spike encrusted slippers instead – the right call 😉

I also brought my Glamor Trash earrings.  I have been wanting to mention James.  I think his earrings garner the most compliments.  He makes them put of old vinyl records just to make them even cooler!  I discovered his work at Dutch Alley on my way to the French Market.  His work is so distinctive I recognized it at the stall in the market.  I asked, “are you James?”  He wanted to see what I had bought.  He was so charming – and his work is so incredible – I bought a second pair 😉

http://dutchalleyartistsco-op.com/jamesjensen.html

So, buy some Glamor Trash earrings as your New Orleans souvenir, dress up like a lady and have a cocktail at the Sazerac Bar.  You will capture a lot of the magic in that one experience – a rich history, southern hospitality and creative surprises.

 

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