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Archive for August, 2013

do you dance? ;)

I do not actually know how to do any dance steps but I must look like a dancer because I am always being dragged onto the dance floor by strangers in foreign countries.  And if there is no dance floor, the aisle on a moving train 😉

In Peru I was asked most days if I liked to dance.  Like Chris in New Orleans, it seems Peruvian men are trained to dance.  A man who can dance is a real treasure.  They lead – so you can pretend as long as you jump around enough to not step on their toes.  That’s my strategy 😉

cusco architecture

cusco architecture

I have already added to my “to do list” – dance at a festival in Peru.  I don’t even need to dance.  I’d just love to participate in a festival.  I think it’s the combination of various cultural religious beliefs.  Cusco seems a bit like New Orleans – any excuse for a party 😉

The calendar seems to be filled with festivals and I regretted my poor planning that I had just missed one.  I never expected to regret being at the Sanctuary Lodge in Machu Picchu instead of partying in Cusco 🙂

In the end I spent only one day in Cusco so it still remains a bit of a mystery – perfect for another visit… But I tried to use my time productively and not succumb to being too much of a tourist.  Cusco is crawling with them.

I had already spent two fleeting evenings in the city but my final visit started on a perfect note.  David, my guide in the Sacred Valley and for my private tour of Machu Picchu, was in Cusco for the night before a “proper” Inca Trail trip so I took him for dinner.  I asked where he wanted to go and he said my new local, Tupananchis.  When you are taking a local to your fave restaurant in their home town, you feel like a traveller rather than a tourist 😉

http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Restaurant_Review-g294314-d1209713-Reviews-Tupananchis-Cusco_Cusco_Region.html

I tried to continue the theme the next day when I was left to my own devices.  I stayed at the Casa Cartagena – my own luxury apartment in Cusco right next to the Orient Express’s Hotel Monasterio for a lower price tag.  I think the hotel room may have been larger than my apartment!  The bathroom was so magnificent it made you reluctant to leave and I had a lovely balcony overlooking the courtyard filled with modern art.  It is a sublime mixture of colonial and contemporary.

http://www.casacartagena.com/en

the amazing bathroom

the amazing bathroom

It’s just enough off the beaten tourist path to make you feel like a local – so I tried to follow the hotel receptionist’s directions to the Saturday market without using my map.  You always see and experience more when you wander.

I found the market without any issues and – while there were a few like-minded tourists obsessed with alpaca – it was mostly full of locals.

getting close and personal with dinner

getting close and personal with dinner

Markets in Peru are full of colour – and meat products looking a little more like the animals of origin than the typical North American supermarket.  Naturally I kept trying surreptitiously to get a great photo of a pig’s head 🙂

Lingering attracts attention so I decided to try out the juice bar in the market.  It’s a bit political.  Some will be mad you didn’t choose them but I was as fair as possible and parked myself into a chair at the first lady who smiled in my direction.  This is the tropics so a fresh fruit smoothie is an experience that’s tough to duplicate in northern climes.

I finished my Cusco adventure in a hunt for silver jewelry inlaid with local stones in intricate patterns.  The

colourful cusco market

colourful cusco market

geologist in me loved the concept of polishing stones to shiny perfection and the anthropologist loved the rich cultural history and Inca symbolism.

When I wear my purchases back in Canada they are not just pretty shiny objects.  I know I am wearing the symbolism of the Inca Cross, Pachamama and the Sun God, hopefully having had a little “local” fairy dust sprinkled on me, establishing an authentic view of Peru and further editing my personal world view and cultural understanding.

does guinea pig taste like chicken? ;)

Unfortunately I was too much of a ‘fraidy cat to be able to answer the question.  Enrique was very keen for me to try guinea pig and I wish I’d been faster with my lens as we drove by some stalls with roasted guinea pigs trussed up in display.

It was Sunday and I was informed that a roasted guinea pig is a Sunday dinner staple.  Apparently guinea pig was part of the staple Inca diet.  It’s usually the most expensive item on the menu.  What I learned on the Sunday drive was that the guinea pigs on menus in Peru are not the tiny pet rodents you likely imagine.  I don’t know what they feed the guinea pigs in Peru but they grow up to look more like a miniature suckling pig!

http://www.pariwana-hostel.com/blog/to-eat-or-not-to-eat-guinea-pig

I may have passed on the guinea pig but I ate ZERO pizza and noshed on local produce everywhere that I travelled.  And there is lots of wonderful food in Peru so it’s easy to eat really well.

aquas calientesI’ve already mentioned a couple of places.  Another culinary highlight was my surprise chef’s tasting menu!  I had been lured in by the promise of prawns flambéed in Pisco.  Aquas Calientes is full of pizza joints so I didn’t ask to see the menu until I was already seated.  That’s when I discovered it was a four course tasting menu with no prices…

But I had just been hobbled by my “trapped on the balcony” experience so I wasn’t keen to do a lot of aimless walking… especially since the vast majority of the offerings were pizza J

It ended up the first course was quinoa quiche floating on creamed corn accompanied by prawns flambéed in Pisco.  It was showy and delicious.  There were two choices for each course.  My next treat was crema of lisas with alpaca jerky; accompanied with native potatoes and Huacatay oil.  Lisas wasn’t translated on the menu and it doesn’t google so I am guessing it just means smooth and creamy.  A crema is a creamy soup, one of the big treats of Peruvian cuisine.  Anyone with a love of potatoes (like me) is in for a joy ride in Peru where there are so many varieties.  Apparently huacatay is an Andean herb.

For the main course, I had trout.  The other options involved mushrooms – mushrooms being the food in know in 20 languages so I never make the mistake of eating them, there was no other choice.  But trucha in Peru is a delight – and you should eat so much you don’t need to translate it anymore 🙂  As you can tell, I had them photocopy the menu for me because it was so delicious and I wanted to remember the details so it was trout fillet topped with meuniere sauce, accompanied by polenta gratin and grilled vegetables.

By the time I got to dessert I needed to run up Machu Picchu to wear off all the calories so I went for the tartare of fruits accompanied with bananas flambéed in Pisco on a fruit coulis.  The more indulgent option was Quillabamba’s Chocolate Passion accompanied with ice cream.

The meal was phenomenal… and when the bill finally arrived… about $35.  And I even tried some Peruvian wine!  (I would recommend the Peruvian pisco and the Chilean wine…)

The restaurant is called Manka and it’s in the Casa del Sol boutique hotel in Aquas Calientes.  a great luxury option that I am sure costs less than the Sanctuary Lodge.

http://hotelescasadelsol.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71&Itemid=48&lang=en

The meal was quite amazing.  The restaurant claims to be celebrating Peruvian cuisine and it certainly lives up to its word.  So many of the special foods of Peru all in one meal!  Trucha, prawns, alpaca, quinoa, potatoes, corn, local herbs, chocolate, bananas and flatbread!  Writing about the meal brings back such spectacular memories.  The service was also first rate and I sat beside the bubbling Urubamba River as I stuffed my face with all of this delicious food at a leisurely pace 🙂

Peru is definitely foodie paradise.  Fresh seafood all over the country.  Local specialties.  A mind-blowing variety in corn and potatoes.  It feels like a grand adventure infood sacred valley fine dining even if you forego the guinea pig… next time 😉

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