a unique perspective on this crazy world

Archive for May, 2012

the chosen ones…

I will now attempt to do a bit of travelogue and catch you up on what I have seen!  What I have also seen is the influence of being a major power on your people.  I was shocked at lunch to hear Americans defend their dollar bill with such vehemence and complain that coins were too heavy.  For a country with such a gigantic fiscal debt, this seemed an irresponsible choice.  But of course the fact that every other country in the world uses coins for that denomination of currency because of economics is the same as the fact that every other country (except an obscure African one I believe) uses the metric system.  Somehow, as Americans, they are above logic and global practices.

There seems to be something of the same in the Egyptians.  Sonia emphasizes at least once a day the accomplishments of ancient Egypt and how Egypt is not a third world country.  Apparently she hasn’t got the memo that “developing economy” is the politically correct term 🙂  And Egypt is a developing economy.  I am mostly alone in spending a few dollars every day on stuff kids sell me.  Sure, they should be in school but I don’t think there is free public education in Egypt so you do what you can when you can’t change the system.  They have to engage me and work for it but I am spending less than the cost of a visit to Starbucks so how can it be a bad thing…

So here is the time to be arrogant about my own people 🙂  I am very happy to be Canadian every day.  But when I travel I am generally pretty proud of my people.  We don’t go around puffing out our chests or proclaiming our accomplishments.  We just troll around in the background, many of us trying to learn about the culture and meeting the local people with an open mind.  And we are starting to get noticed 🙂  CNN gets on my nerves pretty fast so I normally listen to BBC World News when I travel.  I haven’t managed to catch an episode yet but they are doing a series on CANADA this month.  Cause apparently we are happy and prosperous and the Brits are trying to figure out our secrets 🙂

The most fun I have had this trip chatting was with an Englishman I met in the bar at Mena House on my last night.  It was such an easy conversation.  I didn’t have to watch my tongue.  And he told me to exchange some money and carry around a handful of carefully folded five Egyptian pound notes (about $1).  He explained how poor the average Egyptian person is and how tipping is how the economy runs.  Maybe not the ideal system but I am not going to change it in 10 days.  So I am the Canadian girl who tips… but only if I like you and think you have worked for it.  So not everybody gets money…

I realize the travelogue has been diverted… you will get it!  But I am really fascinated by cultures – and how they interact.  Today we had to take a horse and carriage ride to Edfu Temple, a lot closer to the ground and the local culture than we normally get.  I thought it was brilliant.  But apparently it’s politics.  There used to be an air-conditioned A&K bus instead of the horses.  I am happy I am here now.

It’s definitely interesting trying to understand the political situation in Egypt in 2012.  Suzanne is a little obsessed in understanding the politics, which has endeared her to me.  But I think there is no obvious answer.  Despite how much the Egyptians seem to want to deny it, we are in Africa…  and in Africa nothing is simple or logical… but people are generally happy and really easy to crush on… kind of like Canadians… There is a lot to be said for not being the chosen people and using humility as your trump card…

Soon I will be back in Amsterdam.  One of the things that has endeared the Dutch to me so much (in addition of course to the fact that most of them are gorgeous :)) is that they are the only empire I know that managed to navigate the tricky path from world superpower to lesser power with grace and still maintain a vibrant economy and enviable culture.  Perhaps the 21st century belongs to the also-ran powers – the Netherlands, Norway, Canada… nice places to live – with happy, friendly people… 🙂

Here in Egypt we are “Canada… Canada Dry”… but they sing it… I think we have to thank the Italians for that 🙂  It really makes me feel proud to be a Canadian.  The Americans are important to Egyptian politics and to its economy and they get a lot of respect… but when I say Canadian, not American, the Egyptians seem to light up a little bit… and then I smile… and they tell me I will break their heart when I leave Egypt… it’s gonna be tough going back to reality 😉

the boullibaise of religion

Sonia’s style is exclusively focused on the trees so trying to find the forest a bit of an intellectual puzzle.  I know there were a bunch of Pharoahs from different dynasties, the Greeks and Romans (Alexander, Cleopatra and the gang) messed things up and the Hixus (sp?) were an evil mob from the Middle East.

It’s complicated when you are confronted with one of the oldest, most complex civilizations of all time.  One of my big takeaways so far is the impact of religion on Egyptian society.  That fact really hit home this morning when Sonia said the Greeks have no religion.

I think what she meant was that they were pagans.  They had whole bunch of gods, one for everything, if I have my primary school education correct.  Their gods were pretty glamorous but kind of mean – The Real Housewives of Olympus…  I guess religion means one god – even if it seems a lot of people get killed every day trying to sort out exactly who he is.  It’s like The Dating Game and there are three mystery suitors.  You ask some inane questions and then decide it’s god number 1, 2, or 3 that seems like the best prospect.

Last night I had an interesting discussion on comparative religion with a family from Chicago.  The punch line of the conversation is that the children are named Rachel and Noah – but they didn’t seem to be very pious 🙂

The Chicago family are my favourite people on the trip.  I also have a fondness for Suzanne and Chuck.  They are all from Chicago… what that means I am not sure.  I would venture perhaps the answer is that they are interesting and cosmopolitan yet down to earth.  Some of the others seem a bit inexperienced with the world and I feel a bit nervous I might state an opinion that will get me in trouble.  Despite the crap state of their economy and the humbling effect you might expect that to have, most of the Californians seem a bit haughty.

As expected, it’s the Egyptians that I enjoy the most.  They are warm, gracious and charming.  Everyone noticed today that I wasn’t at breakfast.  And Tito was worried he had done something wrong cause I didn’t say “hi” yesterday but I didn’t know his special spot by the obelisk when he wasn’t in his shop.

I think we were talking about religion… believe me, I am no expert on religion in Egypt at this stage.  I gather it started with the Pharaohs who mostly worshipped the sun.  They discovered that many of their systems and beliefs were very similar to the early Christians so they embraced Christianity at an early stage.  Then there were the conquerors from other Arab states and from Greece and Rome so it got all mixed up.  It wasn’t said out loud but I think “deface” came from the habit of one of the groups to scratch out of the faces of the previous groups.  The Pharaohs each have a kartouch – and they would wipe out the kartouch of the original guy and overwrite their own.

It’s fascinating but there is so much writing on the wall in most of the tombs and temples we have been to that it is very challenging to figure out what is going on.  Today we went to Edfu Temple.  It’s for the falcon god.  I’m not quite sure what he was god of but there were a lot of falcons so I got some photos – and could at least recognize some of the stuff on the walls.  Edfu was fairly recently discovered buried in sand and is very well preserved.  The carvings are incredible.

I think the praying to the falcon god is from the religion of the Pharoahs.  Yesterday we were to Luxor Temple and there was a church and a mosque on the same property.  We were even in the right time to hear to call to prayer.  But not everyone was headed for the entrance to the mosque.  It’s a fascinating country – religion has always played a key role in society – but the religion of choice – and the mix of religions has always been changing with the shifting of the sands in the desert we get to experience every day.

the imagery of life

Right now I am sitting in chaise lounge on a luxury boat floating gently along the Nile sipping guava juice brought to me by a super cute Egyptian guy with a killer smile named Allah.  Not an image I would have expected in my childhood as being part of my adult life.  I am not big on mystical self-help theories… and I think it would be boring to visualize what you want and then have it come to you like clock-work.  It is much more fun to hop on a plane having barely read the itinerary and wake up every day to some unexpected adventures and delights.

It is now day 4 of our official touring activities. Days 2 and 3 were packed like one of my regular 13 hour work days so there has been no time to write about anything that I have seen or experienced.  The overall feeling has been one of being pampered.  I am not as well looked after as I was in Tanzania but it is a close second.  What has been most enjoyable is meeting certain staff members and establishing a bond so I am not just some random tourist.

Back in Cairo it was Emad at the bar.  I couldn’t understand 100% of what he was saying but he was so charming and gracious it didn’t matter.  Here on board the ship I have Mohammed, who has taken the role of my personal server.  I get the best Chardonnay (there are 3 choices) and he makes sure I am looked after at every turn.  I will have to purchase something from Tito (a nickname) before I leave the boat.  He runs the shop and has the same charm I encountered in Turkey.  These Middle Eastern guys really give the Italians a run for the money 🙂  Everyone keeps trying to plan my NEXT trip to Egypt!

So… what have I been doing besides flirting with gorgeous Egyptian guys you ask?  Well, I saw the Pyramids!  So, one childhood goal ticked off.  I was a little worried they might not live up to the imagery of my childhood dreams.  But when you see them close up, they are astonishing.  Apparently it was religious fervour that built them.  Egypt’s history is so long, rich and complex and I am approaching it in such a haphazard way that I won’t be able to enlighten you much.  I definitely need to read up when I get home so that I can put all the astonishing things I have seen into context.

Right now I only have a few basic facts.  There was an Upper Egypt and a Lower Egypt and originally they had separate Pharoahs but there was a joining of kingdoms under one Pharaoh for a while, which was Egypt’s golden age.  I think Ramses II was a really important Pharoah.  But they were a whole bunch of Ramses – and they had a ton of wives so I think one of them had 200 children!  I should likely be paying more attention to Sonia instead of wandering off trying to get better photos.

It’s not that I don’t enjoy listening to her and learning about Egypt.  It’s just that there are 23 of us and usually a few other tour groups as well so getting a photo that looks like I am in Egypt alone is a challenge – and wandering away from the herd and trying different settings on my camera and playing with the light the best way to get a photo the rest of you might want to see.

And Sonia is Mediterranean.  I really like her – but the instructions are kind of vague and the timetable far more flexible than she seems to think.  Yesterday we were at the Temple of Karnak.  You may have heard of it.  I definitely had.  But all these things are just random names.  I don’t know any details.  But apparently the “Hypostyle Hall” in the Temple of Karnak is an incredible forest of giant pillars, covering an area larger than the whole of Notre Dame Cathedral.

So far everywhere that we have been is astonishing.  Hypostyle Hall was incredible but we were there midday, not a photographer’s delight.  I WAS listening for quite a while but so was everyone else and it was hard to get a photo without a bunch of random heads in it.  So I got obsessed with trying to get the right photo and figured it would be easy to catch up to the group.

I spied a couple of other people from our team also taking photos so figured it was fine… but then I looked up and they were gone.  Earlier Sonia had stressed we had to leave by 11:35 and it was pretty close to that so naively I thought if I wandered out the temple to the entry point I would catch up with the group.  Having been abandoned in Pompeii some years ago, I knew it was possible.  But it didn’t seem A&K’s style.

But I believed Sonia’s timetable so thought they must be ahead of me, not behind.  So I was running through the midday sun in the desert (it was about 43 degrees!), fighting off aggressive merchants and hoping I remembered the way back to the bus (it was a long, circuitous route).  I arrived at the bus unscathed at the time we supposedly had to leave for the boat.  But I was the only one there!

I realized this might be a bad thing – and Sonia might be looking for me back at the temple.  I asked the driver to call her and tell her I was on the bus.  He assured me he would.  Then I waited… and waited… I asked him to call her 4x – and by time 3 I brought her contact sheet from the A&K info (with her photo :)) and my phone and gestured what to do as I was pretty sure he didn’t speak English and was just agreeing with me without understanding what I had said.  I did eventually get him to call her but he just said she wasn’t answering her phone.  And wouldn’t call again.

It all seemed pretty silly to me.  I gather a search party had been organized – and I think I messed up the schedule a bit.  BUT if we had BEEN on schedule, it would all have been fine.  And why wouldn’t you train the guide to call the bus FIRST – or the bus driver to call the guide when some random passenger showed up early?  The difference between Africa and North America…

At least I think my photos are pretty good and once I have proper internet access I will post them so you can see if you agree 🙂  More African adventures to come…

just call me queen marla :)

I still have a catch up post I want to write about Amsterdam and my recent experience in Europe but my internet will turn off tomorrow morning so figured I would try and type something to get my money’s worth.

Today we got off the compound and I actually saw Tahrir Square.  I even got a shot of a bombed out looking Mubarak headquarters.  Seeing it live definitely made the recent events in Egypt come alive.  Tahrir Square seemed like a ragtag ghost town… a semi abandoned Occupy city…

What was more compelling was the claim of Sonia, our Egyptologist, that we were getting a private tour of the Museum of Antiquities.  It certainly felt that way.  We saw the riches of King Tut’s tomb, some real mummies – not just the coffins – along with other treasures.  But there was no shop because apparently it had been looted during the uprising.

And the museum seemed old and tired despite the beautiful artifacts it held.  What was fascinating was Sonia’s agreement with me that the archeological treasures of the world are best protected by being strewn across various museums.

We saw the real King Tut death mask, along with all sorts of jewelry buried with him.  Sonia was a lively guide and I tried to absorb everything she was saying but there was so much history it was hard to keep up…

What was most fascinating was her view on politics (a big fan of Anwar Sadat).  I am now more or less friends with the hotel bartenders so can up the ante on the political talk.  They have really heavy accents and I am asking complicated questions that normal tourists don’t ask so it’s not totally clear whether Sadat was a good guy or not… and the current election… no one seems very keen…

What they seem to be keen on is redheads 🙂  Today I had two guys at the museum look at me in a way that is hard to describe… do they not realize I am an old lady??? 😉  I already have a couple of guys in the bar that have a little crush I think… and one of the servers at the A&K welcome dinner tonight took a rose out of vase and put it in a special package with my name on it…  I got a takeaway glass of wine to do this post and was planning to just walk it up the path… but there are golf carts everywhere – so we drove really slowly… and then someone else popped up to walk me to my room… he was the one who told me I looked like an Egyptian queen…

Needless to say… my advice… find a developing world country that is pretty safe… and go when other tourists think it’s not safe… just be prepared to hold your tongue a lot when talking to Americans, some of the most lovely people on earth, but frequently so naive you can insult them without meaning to… so instead sneak away and drink wine at the bar with the locals 😉

living like a pharaoh – or Mubarak…

I have arrived in Egypt!  And I am living in a palace!  It looked like a palace… and then I finally read the tour info.  And, yes, a getaway spot for Empress Eugenie.  The world is a pretty mixed up place.  You see these places from the past built for monarchs and you really wonder how someone could think that was even remotely fair. 

I feel a little guilty and displaced in a setting like this.  I can see the Pyramids from my room!!!  But you just have to be yourself and treat everyone respectfully and you can be part of the economic development of the developing world.  It’s all about jobs.  When people have jobs, they have a life.  So while it feels a little evil living like a princess, there are a lot of staff here and I expect this is a good job if you live in Egypt.  I still remember standing with Alex at the Ngorongoro Crater as he was chatting with friends and he stressed how they had a good life cause they had jobs.

I spent the afternoon photographing like mad so there will be photos too once I upload some.

I arrived around 2am.  I usually try NOT to arrive in developing countries in the middle of the night but apparently it is the norm for flights from Europe to Cairo.  I am booked on a tour with Abercrombie & Kent.  It really pays to spend the big bucks when you are going to a developing country for the first time.  I knew I needed a visa and figured I would have to sort it out on my own but my guy found me immediately, I slipped him 15 euros very quickly, we moved to a different line – and we had cleared customs in no time.

That’s when I saw Mubarak’s house… my god, these Africa dictators are a piece of work.  It looked like a palace too.  Arriving in the dead of night in Cairo actually has its benefits I discovered!  Normally the traffic is a nightmare (this is a city of 25 million people, the third largest in the world apparently) but at 3am you can drive through the city.  So I got the free “Cairo by night” tour.  It was fascinating.  Lit up mosques like in Istanbul – but many were modern, not ancient.  Lots of incredible old architecture.  Buildings from the 12th century. And lines of vehicles. And people milling about.  The 24 hour shops.  People stumbling out of nightblubs.  At 3am Cairo is alive! 

It is not the Africa that I know.  It’s very modern.  There are poor areas for sure but it is such a different arrival to Arusha last year.  And now I am in my gilded cage 🙂  I am not sure how much of the real Egypt I will get to see but the concept for this trip is old Egypt in its glory days – and I think that is assured.

As I type this I am waiting for my dinner reservation at one of the best Indian restaurants in Cairo apparently.  The hotel group who owns this property is based in India so I am assuming the intel is likely accurate.  While I wait I am listening to amazing classical music in a bar that comes from a completely different century.  Most people look like grubby tourists but I think my carefully chosen Egypt wardrobe fits in really well.  And the new dress I bought at Esprit really does work in the heat – and was a great bargain.  They closed all the Esprit stores in Canada before I got to use my $27 credit so I was on the lookout for an Esprit store in Amsterdam – and it worked!

I spent the afternoon roaming the property and snapping photos.  I saw a little bit of Islamic architecture in Spain and in Istanbul but mostly it’s new.  First I tried to capture the grandeur of the palace and the amazing shadows created by the elaborate lighting fixtures and the low lighting.  Then I went outside and played with the reflections in the pool.  One of the gardeners was keen to take photos of me so I have a bunch of tourist photos I don’t normally get.  Once I get the photos up, you will see me in front of the Pyramids! 🙂  Everybody is eager to help.  There are golf carts to take you around the property.  You have to make a point of stressing you would like to walk!

Back from dinner now… listening to BBC World News and talk of the Arab Spring.  Means more being here.  Ricardo from A&K organized for me to have dinner with some Americans who are also part of my tour so it was a lot more fun than anticipated.  Dinner was good – but I am so spoiled coming from Vancouver.  It’s no Vij’s 😉

The bar was more fun… although very quiet since it is Friday night.  But this is not exactly the real world.  I did establish a connection with one of the bartenders though so we had a lively discussion about what it means to be Coptic, why they built the Pyramids and the role of religion in society among other topics… my life is never dull… so no need to liven up the trip by hitting Tahrir Square.  Today is protest day and Egypt isn’t in the news so apparently things will be pretty tame.  My first day in Egypt has been wonderful.  The people are quite formal but really warm and excited to have me here – exactly what I expected 😉

Internet in Africa is wildly expensive so I will try my best to keep writing the posts but they may appear in groups as I decide to buy a little internet time…

glory days

Perhaps Bruce Springsteen had to settle for a boring middle age when his glory days were back in high school but I seem to be creating my glory days in middle age – and even able to recreate recent glory.

Again we must time travel back a few days – to when I actually scribbled this in an old-fashioned notebook…

As I write this “catch up” post I am sitting in a local brasserie I found on my Wolford shop scouting mission on P.C. (the real name is Pieter Cornelius Hoofstraat – you can understand the diminutive – but made my map a bit useless so I just went with my memories and I found it).  It’s  dinner time, just prepping for tomorrow, so also spied this place.  The menu came without a translation and everyone is speaking Dutch.  Very cool…  A 25 euro menu.  Tomato soup to die for.  Argentinian steak cooked to a perfect medium with great flavour.  Even some veggies!  Excellent wine.  A real discovery…

The period since the last post was rediscovery.  Last year I was in Amsterdam en route to Tanzania since you could fly directly from Shiphol to Kilimanjaro and avoid a trip to Dar es Salaam.  I had planned the trip to find the optimal blend between work not being too crazy and – fingers crossed – arriving in the middle of “the migration” when the zebras and wildebeests move from the southern Serengeti into the Masi Mara is one of those top ten National Geographic moments.

Since the timing was decided with an eye to migrating wild animals, not playoff Canucks, I arrived in Amsterdam just as the Canucks were about to play game 5 of the Stanley Cup final.

The Olympics had brought back all my fond memories of watching Hockey Night in Canada with my dad.  Ironically back then I had a mad schoolgirl crush on Bobby Orr and my team was the Boston Bruins.  I didn’t live in a city and the NHL was at least 90% Canadian so you were cheering for Canada no matter the team name.

I had happened to be having dinner in a sports bar the night the Canucks went into the Stanley Cup playoffs so I decided I would commit to watching them.  As many of you know, they made it to game 7 of the Stanley Cup Final so it proved to be a major commitment.

I watched game 5 and 6 in Amsterdam, starting at 2am!  And managed to at least listen to game 7 on CBC Radio in the middle of a coffee plantation in Arusha, Tanzania.  Another story for later.  The bottom line – I put more effort into WATCHING that game than the Canucks put into PLAYING it!

But game 5 was special.  I’d done some research pre-arrival.  And I met some other hockey mad Canadian at my hotel who was going to another location.  I had already confirmed with my location just after the plane landed that I could watch an ice hockey game that didn’t start until 2am and not get kicked out at 4am when the bars close.

My option was in the Red Light District, a part of Amsterdam I had always avoided, so I checked out the other option first.  Apparently some lame Canucks fans had promised to stay until the end and make it worth the bar’s effort but when they were losing they had reneged on the deal so it didn’t sound promising I would see the end of the game.

And fate has a way of working but… It started pouring rain so I took a taxi to the youth hostel with the sports bar attached.  It was dead – and almost creepy.  So I confirmed the arrangements.  I couldn’t leave after 2am and get back in but as long as I was in by then all was good.

At that stage it was a bit late for dinner but not hopeless.  I found a street that looked lively but would be easy to find my way back for the hockey game.

Most of the bars were full by then so the concept of a seat at the bar for dinner was impossibility.  I finally got to the end of the street.  I spied some empty seats at the bar so went in hopefully…  But the bartender told me I was sitting beside the chef so it looked like I would be channeling the Germans and pretending “beer is food” 🙂

Martin (the chef) and Peter were lively conversationalists and Stefan (the bartender) held his own so I finally left for my hockey game with a plan to come back the next night so I could have a personal escort to some cool whisky bar in the Leidseplein instead of going alone with my map drawn on a napkin.

It’s way more fun to hang out in a bar where you know the bartender so I showed up a bit early the next night, content to just wait for Peter to finish his shift and show me the whisky bar.

The evening started on a quiet note.  Then I spotted some guy coming up from the toilets sporting a cowboy hat with an arrow through it.  In Amsterdam, you just shrug it off… but shortly after a group of guys in cowboy hats came to order drinks.  And when they spoke it all got a little surreal – SCOTTISH COWBOYS???  Hard to ignore…

And they were equally interested in me.  I soon felt like I was a bewildered gazelle surrounded by hungry lions but it certainly made “waiting for Peter” a lot more entertaining than I was planning on.

There were at least 15 of them.  It was obvious they were a tight knit gang.  One of their favourite hobbies seemed to be taking the piss out of each other.  It was like watching a free improv comedy team.  I was the “straight girl”.  I could have ignored them – but engaging with them was far more entertaining.  Apparently they leave their wives at home and come to Amsterdam once a year to “bond”.  Each year they have a theme – so that year they were cowboys.  The previous year they had been “colours”, each dressed in a different rainbow hue.  They showed me the photos on their iphones.

They were quite determined I should go dancing with them and abandon my whisky date with Peter.  The idea that I was sitting in a bar waiting for some guy I barely knew was fuel for their comedy act that was irresistible.  They were obviously behind the times up there in Scotland cause they started composing the personals ad that I must have placed to be in this situation.

It was Saturday night so Peter was very busy.  The pressure from the cowboys to abandon Peter and come dancing with them just kept escalating…  They started asking everyone who passed us on their way to the bathroom if their name was Peter.  Needless to say, both people’s reactions and the cowboys’ commentary were keeping Stefan and I highly entertained.

In an effort to increase support for their point of view they started polling people in the bar as to whether I should wait for Peter or go with them.  I held to my commitment – even if the Austrians thought I was wrong 🙂

By the time Peter finally arrived he was a celebrity.  The crowd cheered.  He was crowned with a cowboy hat.  The cowboys have him the “thumbs up”.  No casual effort to drink some whisky had ever begun with such fanfare.

I knew I would never duplicate the cowboy experience but I decided I should drop by just in case anyone remembered me.  At first it didn’t look hopeful.  There was a new guy (Tony) behind the bar.  But he was friendly and it was freezing outside so a beer before my commute back to the ‘burbs seemed a good plan.

Then I saw Peter walk in to get a bottle of wine.  He didn’t seem to recognize me but he wasn’t exactly expecting me to be sitting at the bar.  I decided to be bold and send a message via another guy standing behind the bar who confirmed he worked there.  Apparently at the same time Peter was in the kitchen trying to figure out why I looked familiar… but being a redhead helps!

First Peter came to say “hi” and pour me another beer.  Then Martin sat down to chat.  Peter finished a bit later.  And the past was repeated with great success.  Amsterdam felt like a place where I was reconnecting with old friends.  Proving you CAN relive your glory days.  And have a delicious free lamb early dinner the next day, courtesy of Martin! 🙂

finding my tribe

sorry, I am still playing catch up so pretend it’s May 5th 🙂

I am hiding in a pub that apparently has 70 different beers on offer, partly to avoid Heineken, but mostly to escape from the cold.  Apparently it is still winter in Amsterdam and my suitcase is packed for Egypt!

This has made my usual habit of wandering the canals late at night in a short skirt and heels sound like a lot less fun than normal so I am going to spend a much less decadent Saturday night than originally planned.

That’s not to say no fun is being had.  It really pays to read the airline in flight magazine.  That’s how I knew May 5th was special in Amsterdam and I should be on the lookout for “Go Back to the Zoo”.

This morning was a write-off – cause last night turned out to be a lot more fun than expected.  Since this is my fifth trip to Amsterdam, I decided to be a bit adventurous and stay at a hotel called CitizenM.  In this case, the M is for mobile.  The hotel is very modern and highly entertaining.  For example, on my room key – citizenM says: travel light but carry a big smile.  My travel motto summed up!

The interior design is both functional and witty.  Wi-fi is free everywhere and simple to use.  There is a 24 hr canteen/bar and hotel staff are called “global ambassadors”.  The price is good (<C$200).  The only drawback – I am living in the ‘burbs.  But the goal this trip was to try and see Amsterdam like a local rather than a tourist.  (The other drawback – people keep chatting to me while I try to type my blog posts in the canteen – why it is taking so long!)

And apparently one can have fun in the ‘burbs 🙂  Last night I was freezing and a little under-dressed (less than in the afternoon when I left the hotel dressed for spring and was worried I’d end up with frostbite!) so went over to the train station but saw a lively bar so thought I would start there and see where things went.

Travel always offers the opportunity for memorable moments.  Just after I arrived, everything got very quiet and serious.  All the talking was in Dutch so the “why” was unclear but just stood quiet and still like everyone else.  Based on today’s research re: May 5th I think it was the two minutes of silence for Remembrance.  May 4, 1945 was the day the Germans surrendered and Holland was liberated.  So May 4th is the Day of Remembrance.  In the evening there are two minutes of silence and then the “Liberation Party” begins and lasts through May 5th.

So yet again I stumbled into a great day to arrive in a foreign city!  Had the weather cooperated I would be partying in Dam Square until 11pm but my Egyptian wardrobe just can’t cut it.

It hasn’t been as exciting as normal.  Next time I’ll be staying on the canals.  But last night provided enough excitement for two days.  I figured if I got bored I would sort out how to take the train into the city…  But boredom and Amsterdam just don’t seem to be a mix… Fortified by an excellent chicken satay in the lounge area (these people did colonise Indonesia after all :)), I wandered into the bar proper.

There was a DJ and the music was really great.  He even played “Walk Like an Egyptian”.  I had to smile.  And smiling in bars can change the course of the night.

The first change not so great.  I am pretty sure he was Polish because he kept including Poland in all his references… not sure if he is representative but he definitely needs to work on his bar skills.  It was loud and he was yelling into my ear so much that it literally began to hurt so I had to end it as politely as I could manage.

The adventures with Dutch guys were far more pleasant.  I revived the tradition of tipping Dutch bartenders.  (Apparently the Dutch are very cheap so the equivalent of C$1 will have the bartender blowing you kisses).

Going to the bathroom can also prove entertaining.  Not my first bathroom story 🙂  Generally the toilets in Amsterdam are always at the top of a narrow, wildly steep staircase (a deterrent to drunkenness I think 😉 When I was heading down from the bathroom last night, I saw two guys coming up hugging both stair rails so waiting at the top seemed a good plan.

The first guy was hauled up the final steps by the attendant.  His friend seemed more sober – until he kissed me!  I don’t really know the details as his explanation was in Dutch but being kissed unexpectedly by a cute Dutchman definitely a bit of an ego boost 🙂

I was happy to just listen to music and dance a little in my own space but some very tall Dutch guy decided I was lonely and that I needed to be dancing and brought me into the circle with his friends.  At one point we decided I wasn’t tall enough so he picked me up off the floor to put me on the same level with Dutch people.  A tad disconcerting but does make for a lively night.  The night ended with me trying to get out the door and encountering problems.  The cute Dutch guy on the other side just taunted me.  I finally got out and he showed me the easier exit.  But I was laughing and smiling through it all so he told me he loved me and gave me a thumbs up.

One would think that would be enough.  But then I went down to the canteen to try and put my blog on-line and met Altin, an articulate and entertaining guy from Nepal… and somehow it was 3am before I got to my room.

Between jetlag and such a late night, my body wasn’t sure this morning whether to be asleep or awake.  Nevertheless, I managed to get the train to Centraal Station – and the Amsterdam I know.  Centraal Station and the Hotel Prinz Hendrik a big part of Amsterdam 2011…

Found my way to Dam Square without a map, just in time for “Go Back to the Zoo”.  Would have loved to spend the whole day watching bands for free but it’s just too cold.

It’s now official – the Dutch are my favourite national group 🙂 It’s like they are a mix of the best from the Germans, the Scandinavians and the Latins.  They are efficient and get stuff done.  They are a small country so don’t take themselves too seriously and have a sense of humour.  They are oozing with charm and love to drink and party into the wee hours.

And only in Amsterdam do you see a group sporting gold glitter cowboy hats, some random witches and a parade of girls all dressed in bizarre gear making their way through Dam Square – the vixen with the stuffed leopard got my attention 😉

Amsterdam is a special place.  Unique like the Dutch.  The French might have coined “joie de vivre” but the Dutch teach you what it means…

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